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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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Adventures of Benjamin F. Bear
1 Adventures of Benjamin F. Bear
New York Lord & Taylor Wraps Very Good 
N.d., circa early to mid-1940s. (Reference to Office of Price Administration, which existed between 1941 and 1947, and references to "Admiral Byrd Cloth", among other things, suggest the earlier part of this period.) 30 by 14 cm. Unpaginated, 24 pp. including wrap covers. Scarce, with no copies appearing on OCLC FirstServe. Loosely strung story about a cute cub who decides not to hibernate so that he can find out what autumn and winter are like in New York City, and all the fun he has as a result. On the rectos is narrated the story, while on the facing versos junior fashion items are illustrated and described, with the descriptions sometimes making allusion to the accompanying story. This was from a time when children in the city were dressed up in city clothes like miniature adults, and even play clothes, in which children could be children, had a certain flair that has largely vanished from our fashion scene. The illustration of both the children's fashion and the bear story are done in what can only be described as the breezy Lord & Taylor signature style, which was a perfect expression of the upscale department specialty store's image of comfortable elegance. At the time, this look was new, introduced by retail legend Dorothy Shaver, the first female president of a major retail chain. The story of the bear is not to be confused with a more recent, somewhat similar story with almost the same title. The story here may not be anyone's idea of sublime juvenile fiction -- it was probably written by a member of the store's marketing staff or its advertising agency -- but it does capture a moment in our culture very well indeed. Corner chips on the wraps. Darkening of the cover. Generally clean within. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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Album of 48 Color Plates, one double paged, Paris-Toilette, Daydou Fils
2 Album of 48 Color Plates, one double paged, Paris-Toilette, Daydou Fils
Paris Daydou Fils. Imprimerie Lafontaine & Fils 1891 First edition Hardcover Very Good 
Folio, 43 by 32 cm. 48 hand-colored plates, one double paged, followed by nine double paged plates, on thin paper, of the same fashions shown in black and white. Paris-Toilette was a fashion magazine issued monthly which would appear to have been heavily oriented towards such color plates, but what we have here is not issues as such but rather a collection of the plates issued by the magazine during the Spring months, and perhaps a little earlier, of 1891. The magazine itself is hard to come by, with the only copies located at the Met, the Danish National Library and Penn State, according to OCLC First Search. (Nothing comes up at the BNF when we search "Paris Toilette Daydou", strangely enough.) The images show somewhat generic looking beautiful women of the era in elaborate, gorgeous gowns. Joints repaired. Fraying and wear to cloth, and moderate wear overall. A few small closed tears to the color plates, and substantial repair to one of the black and white double plates. 
Price: 750.00 USD
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3 Antique Box and Feathered Ladies Mitt from Otto Huster, Importer and Manufacturer of Fancy Furs, Wholesale & Retail, No. 38 Maiden Lane, New York.
NA Near Fine and Fine 
N.d, but the latest date would be 1876 when the Otto Huster company filed for bankruptcy. The box itself is round like a hat box, with a blue paper pastedown label on top, and the round edges sewn together. Its dimensions are 23.5 cm tall, and 19 cm in diameter. The box has light abrasions and wear but is excellently preserved overall, with the label fully intact, its lettering perhaps faded but still easily legible and attractive. The mitt is an incredible survivor and would appear to not have ever been used. Because of its age, it has a delicacy that demands it be handled with care. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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Ashland Uniform Company.  34 West 33rd Street, New York City Ashland Custom-Made Washable Uniforms
4 Ashland Uniform Company. 34 West 33rd Street, New York City Ashland Custom-Made Washable Uniforms
New York 1936 Heavy wraps. Fine 
4to. 25 by 20 cm. Twelve leaves, each after the first with an illustrated plate showing the wide variety of uniforms manufactured by the company: hotel bellhop, waiter, tuxedo, naval, army, medical, chef, delivery. Generally there is a theme to each plate, but this is not strict. The models wearing the uniforms are drawn, and all are handsome or pretty, in a bland, Arrow Collar man way. The illustrations capture an ideal of the working man or woman as envisioned in the 1930s. The back of the plates is bland other than for the company's distinctive insignia formed by two silhouetted bellhops. A lovely, scarce, trade catalogue. No copies of anything from this company listed on OCLC First Search. Also a cover letter and a separate folded sheet price list. 
Price: 150.00 USD
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Chic Parisien.  Journal Special Pour Modeles de Paris et Vienne.  Atelier Bachwitz.  Paris Vienna. Max Grab Fashion Co. Sole Agent for U.S.A. and Canada. New York Paraissant le 1er de chaque mois.  IXieme Annee.  American Edition of "Chic Parisien"
5 Chic Parisien. Journal Special Pour Modeles de Paris et Vienne. Atelier Bachwitz. Paris Vienna. Max Grab Fashion Co. Sole Agent for U.S.A. and Canada. New York Paraissant le 1er de chaque mois. IXieme Annee. American Edition of "Chic Parisien"
New York Max Grab Fashion Co. Josef Eberle, printer 1907 Wraps Very Good 
Elephantine Folio. 43 by 32 cm. [2 pp. illustrated ads], 8 pp., followed by 11 color plates, two of which are two paged. Excepting the two double paged plates, the plates also have b/w insets of rear views of the gowns being showcased, and on the versos of five of the plates are b/w fashion details and variants. (The other plates are blank on the versos.) One of the plates is an extra plate, not printed with this issue of the Chic Parisien. The American edition of the magazine was issued monthly, with two special supplements per year, issued in March and September. The issue here is one such supplement, issued in September (undated, but the text refers to the 1907 to 1908 season). Scarce, possibly because Max Grab was a retailer and so this was in a sense a cross between a magazine and a trade catalogue. The gowns, furs, and big, bold feathered hats are elegant, luxuriant and spectacular. The clothes were intended for the wealthy ladies to wear to balls, casinos, sporting events, luncheons, shopping and other outings, and the designs were entirely directed towards beauty. There was as yet no hint of rebellion, edginess, or slumming in the creations. Yet while dressy, many of the designs have simple, flattering lines, and many of the designs looked compatible with activity -- these are not uncomfortable, constraining garments to all appearances. One sees in the models, also, that a slender figure was gaining favor; no longer was the plumpness of the late 19th c;entury being idealized. Light wear. Two tape repairs at spine tips. 
Price: 750.00 USD
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Costume Francais de 1200 a 1715
6 Costume Francais de 1200 a 1715
London C. Hullmandel Full Morocco Fine 
12mo, 5.5 by 4.5 inches, or 14 by 11.5 cm. 100 hand-colored lithograph costume plates, all immaculate. Leaves are printed only on one side, and the plates resemble stylish costume cards. This book is usually found with only black and white plates. Other than minor toning along the edges, the thick paper looks virtually new. All is bound in a lush modern reddish-orange morocco, with gilt and incised decoration on both the boards and spine. The gilt figures incorporate the shape of the fleur-de-lys and come off both tastefully simple and elegant. The leather has a particularly substantial look, atypical of a book this size, and it is also in superb condition. The green marbled endpapers complete the package of this petit charmer. 
Price: 1500.00 USD
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7 Costumes et Moeurs des Differentes Nations. Ornes de 48 Gravures.
Paris Alexis Eymery 1826 First Edition Thus Half Morocco Good Plus 
32mo, 8 by 6 cm. 120 pp. The French equivalent of a rare English miniature -- Alfred Mills "Costumes of All Nations". Woodcut plates are simple and even naive but tend to depict people in some kind of activity. Thus there is the free black man making his slave climb a tree, a young "negress" playing ouri, Congolese carrying their cheif on a chaise, South Sea natives in mourning, etc. Leather is heavily rubbed. Cloth boards with scuffs and abrasions. Light occasional foxing and other minor soiling. Some leaves with minor corner creases. 
Price: 250.00 USD
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Costumes of British Ladies from the time of William the 1st to the reign of Queen Victoria
8 Costumes of British Ladies from the time of William the 1st to the reign of Queen Victoria
London Dickenson & Son Full Morocco Near Fine 
N.d., circa 1840. Folio, 48 hand-colored lithographed plates, some heightened in gilt, all mounted on card, as originally issued. Each accompanied by brief caption relating to authorities upon which illustration was based, and this caption is on separate leaf's verso, and there is a tissue guard sheet between this and the related plate. Title page with lovely hand-colored floral border. Followed by list of subscribers, which contains 171 names, and this must surely have been the extent of the entire issue since copies are extremely scarce. (Obviously the book has been mined many times as a breaker for plates.) The original gutta percha binding has been replaced with a sewn casing that is far more durable. Modern green full morocco and marbled endpapers. Gilt edges. Offsetting onto tissues. Small discreet library stamp on versos of plates -- otherwise no signs of ex-library whatsoever. Very occasional light fox marks. 
Price: 3000.00 USD
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Costumi della corte Pontificia
9 Costumi della corte Pontificia
Roma 1846 First Edition Paper Pastedown on folder Near Fine 
Leporello with 30 hand-colored images of Vatican costume, in addition to title with lovely colored decoration and cameo portrait of Gregorio XVI, which also helps date this as 1846 or earlier. The last leaf is pasted to a folder, which in this case has a distinctive faux burled wood (walnut-like) finish. The imagery is sharp, bright and clean. Some wear to the joints of the outer folder. 
Price: 650.00 USD
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Costumi della Corte Pontificia
10 Costumi della Corte Pontificia
Roma A. Depolette First Edition Presumed Quarter Calf. Marbled Boards. Very Good Plus 
N.d., circa 1840. Large paper version: folio, 34 by 23.5 cm. With 62 hand-colored costume plates, plus engraved title page with hand-colored vignette and dedication page with hand-colored portrait of Pope Pio IX. These images of Vatican dress, both which cover both ecclessiastic and military costume, are generally encountered in a far smaller, leporello format, with also fewer images -- typically thirty plates. In this other guise, the target audience were the many tourists who paid a visit to Rome and were enamored with a pocket souvenir. The diminutive leporello assuredly exudes enormous charm that has not diminished over nearly two centuries, but the images really do not quite match these original Marroni engravings with their excellent detailing and glorious hand-coloring, and we would stress, the coloring is not only brilliant, but also it would appear not to have lost one bit of lustre from the day it was applied to paper. Scuffs to leather. Newer marbled paper pastedown on boards. A small amount of scattered light soiling and/or foxing, mostly in the early leaves, such as there is. 
Price: 1650.00 USD
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11 Demorest's Monthly Magazine: 1866
New York W. Jennings Demorest 1866 Wraps Good 
Near miniature, measuring 3.25 by 2.5 inches, or 8 by 6.5 cm. 39 pp. With two color fashion plates, one showing Mme. Demorest's Mirror of Fashions, with a group of women and an infant in whale-boned gowns, and a second depiction a woman in equestrian costume, and many tiny woodcut illustrations of garments and accessories. Also interesting are the advertisements, including a small one for Steinway & Sons. Demorest's Magazine was like Godey's in its mix of fashion, domestic arts, stories, culture and general interest. Standing out is some emhasis on equestriana and sports suitable for women. With a separate dry goods specialty business (Mms Demorest's Emporium of Fashion), there was cross-fertilization in the web of family enterprises. One music score included herein, for "Song of the Fairies", has music written by WIllamina Vienna J. Demorest the first wife of William Jennings Demorest (1822 - 1895), the patriarch. William spearheaded a tleast five successful magazines, and with his second wife built up a clothing manufacturing and merchandising business. He was also a leader of the prohibition movement and once ran for mayor of New York. The cover has considerable wear and creasing, with a minor corner chip. The leaves within are age toned but mostly clean otherwise. 
Price: 185.00 USD
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12 Deutsche Volkstrachten. Eine Sammlung deutscher Trachtenbilder
Koln am Rhein Verlag Haus Neuerburg GMBH Wraps Very Good Plus 
Album 198 cigarette cards of German folk costume broken down by regions. Wraps with light soiling. A few flattened creases and two minor closed tears to rear of wraps. Interior clean, bright and complete. 
Price: 125.00 USD
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Fashions for Fall and Winter 1888-90.   Geo. A. Plummer & Co., 591 & 593 Washington St. Boston
13 Fashions for Fall and Winter 1888-90. Geo. A. Plummer & Co., 591 & 593 Washington St. Boston
Boston 1888 Leather Folder Very Good 
27 cards housed in a leather wallet-like bill fold, with the cards illustration women's and children's fashion on one side, with brief text descriptions and price info on the back sides. The bill fold is 13.5 by 8.5 cm, the cards, 12.5 by 7.5 cm each. The illustrations are in black and white. The fashions are numbered, so surely the bill fold was given to customers, along with suggested fashions for them. As a promotional tool, this was a variant on the typical catalogue, allowing for more customization. Its interest lies both in the fashion illustrations and the relative uniqueness of the marketing approach. We have found no records on the company, George A. Plummer, but it must have been a fairly sizeable enterprise since it occupied two street numbers on a major shopping corridor in Boston, and because it indulged in what must have been a fairly expensive marketing tool. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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14 Fashions of Distinction. Quality Woolens for Fine Custom Tailoring Season of Fall and Winter 1937 1938
New York Reliance Woolen Co., Inc. Cardboard, Fine Spiral Very Good 
Folio-sized trade catalogue. 39 by 29 cm. Unpaginated. 40 pp., plus inside of card covers with content. Large color plates of mostly men's fashion, with some stylish women in their company, for the Town & Country set. In each of these plates is a backdrop inset depicting glamorous sporting and other cosmopolitan activities, many in New York, such as the idealized men and women might actively enjoy. So there are images of the Rockefeller Center skating rink, a private plane, an ocean liner, the Yale campus, college football, the downtown New York skyline, horseback riding in Central Park, etc. The fashions are late thirties, with fabulous men's suits, and when women's hems were on the longish side, and the sophistication is such that nowadays it seems hopeless ever re-capturing. In the back there are detailed descriptions of the garments of particular utility to those with a more technical bent. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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15 Fashions of Distinction. Quality Woolens for Fine Custom Tailoring Volume 30-1
New York Reliance Woolen Co., Inc., Glicksman Fashion Co., Inc. 1939 Cardboard, Fine Spiral Very Good 
Folio-sized trade catalogue. 39 by 29 cm. Unpaginated. 42 pp. Large color plates of mostly men's fashion, with some stylish women in their company, for the Town & Country set. In each of these there is a backdrop bespeaking the glamorous lifestyle: a-deck a yacht, at the horse races, at an idyllic college campus, at the country club, at a fabulous pool. The fashions are late thirties, with fabulous men's suits that are perhaps a little freer and more casual than a year or two earlier, as ladies' dress hems are moving up towards the knee. In the back there are suggestions for formal attire, a plage devoted to sport backs, and two pages devoted to ladies' trends. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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16 Feminine Fashions Past and Present
Cloth Very Good 
N.d., circa 1920. 4to. 32 by 24 cm. No title, as it was probably issued. Unpaginated, 22 pp., all with hand-colored illustrations of women's dress, hair-styles, etc. from 1600 to the late 1800s. This would appear a reprint, in a smaller format, of part of a work by H. Rouit, and perhaps this was issued privately, or by a non-publishing commercial concern. While the rendering of women's faces is undistinguished, the colors used in some of the garments are lushly rich, and as a visual survey of the three centuries, it is exemplary. 
Price: 150.00 USD
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Flyer for Lewis & Company, Liverpool, manufacturer of boys' clothing
17 Flyer for Lewis & Company, Liverpool, manufacturer of boys' clothing
NA Very Good 
N.d., circa 1860. Oblong, 14 by 24.5 cm. On one side is an illustration of seven boys sporting the company's high fashion of the moment, and the other side is info about the company and the offer to prospective customers to take the clothing on trial. Back to the illustration, the boys have the faces of Greek statuary, which represented an ideal of masculine beauty at the time, and hair of luxuriant wavy locks. Their pants taper down to tiny shoes -- the boys almost could be mistaken for having bound feet like upper crust Chinese women. The clothes on offer include a tunic suit, an inverness wrapper (a cape), coats, a Brighton suit, etc. The target market was boys 4 to 20. Age toning, and a touch of soiling. Two folds, as was probably how the advertisement was issued. 
Price: 20.00 USD
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18 Goettinger Taschen Calender von Jahr 1778
Joh. Chr. Dieterich Stiff Card, Slipcase. Near Fine 
32mo. 10 by 6 cm. 100 pp. With 29 illustrated plates, 17 of which are grouped preliminarily and cover the extravagant ladies' hair styles of the day, the remainder spaced in the first half the text and generally carrying two oval vignette portraits on each one. Preserved, besides the original stiff card boards and probably the original endpapers is the decorative slipcase with its wallpaper pattern-like design. Light to moderate edgewear on the slipcase. 
Price: 2250.00 USD
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Henry Matier & Co. Decorative Folding Handkerchief Box
19 Henry Matier & Co. Decorative Folding Handkerchief Box
NA Very Good Minus 
1860s (stamp on bottom with two 1860s dates), with elaborate cartonnage decoration as common to the period. Closed, the box measures 19.5 by 9 by 6.5 cm. The box opens like a book in the middle to double its width, and each side then has a lid which can be pulled up with a crimson ribbon to reveal the well in which handkerchiefs were kept. The top of the box has a oval centerpiece portrait of an ancient noble or warrior (Cretan? Carthaginian?) rendered in color. Surrounding is a wreath of flowers and seraps, and in each corner is a medallion from various world expositions. When the top is lifted, each of the two box lids within is decorated with a color cameo portrait of a contemporary lady of fashion, and these panels are bordered in a rich gilt band and elaborate curlycue gilt decoration within. Moderate wear to the outside of the box, with small dent or two and trivial tearing of the paper. Soiling of the sides. Within the cartonnage is quite bright and clean. One of the lids is a bit pushed down on one side. 
Price: 125.00 USD
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20 I.O.O.F. Costumes and Regalia. The Henderson-Ames Co. Kalamazoo, Mich. Degree Staff Costumes, Regalia, Paraphernalia, Books, Blanks and Supplies for Odd Fellow Lodges Net Catalogue Number Five
Kalamazoo, MI Henderson-Ames Co. Press 1910 First Edition Wraps Very Good 
Folio, 34 by 25.5 cm. 134 pp. Plus separate cover letter and order form. With 24 pages of full color to the costumes or objects (the models are photographed and their faces are in black and white even when the costume is shown in color). 22 additional pages with one color, red, in addition to black and white (these are showing collars). The costumes are fantastical, some of them with a sinister or strange air, some with ancient associations, and all, without exception, goofy. The costumes can also range from ecclesiastic or biblical to pagan, academic to martial. Almost all are depicted head to toe and with actual photographed faces, although these would appear to have been pasted onto the costume, with the actual persons not photographed modeling the garments. (An early photo-shopping, if you will.) Also peddled are banners, painted scroll backdrops, swords, spears, wands, torcheres, masks, harps, minute books -- all the paraphernalia that might serve a fraternal order or dress-up men's club, or perhaps an S & M dungeon. Henderson-Ames has roots in the 1860s and became a major purveyor of uniforms, and not just those of fraternal orders, but including military uniforms and other lines. The company merged with Lilley-Ames in 1933 and operations were shortly moved to Ohio. Moderate soiling to the wraps. Clean and tight otherwise. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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