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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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1 "Company School" Metamorphic Costume Cards, Watercolors/Gouache on Mica, depicting various Indian characters -- tradespeople and servants
NA Good 
N.d. Circa 1830 to 1850. Eleven cards, ten of which are overlay cards, deliberately leaving out a face, and one, the base card, this one featuring two heads, one to apply to the standing figures, the other, to the kneeling/seated ones, regardless of the figure's gender. The cards all measure 11 by 7.5 cm. Scarce genre. One comes upon Company School mica painted figures with some regularity, and metamorphic costume overlay cards, the same, but the two genres combined are encountered far far less. These Indian paintings on mica from the early to mid-19th Century have become known as "Company School" paintings because they were typically produced for employees of the East India Company as souvenirs. The genre was supposedly emulating the painting on glass which was the rage in Europe at the time. The nature of mica dictated the size of these paintings. While mica has the wonderful ability to be shaved off into thin slices or sheets, these sheets are also brittle and easily fracture, making a larger format impractical. The subject matter of these cards include a seated street vendor with scales, a seated woman spinning thread on a spindle whorl, a seated pot mender, a man armed with a scimitar and shield, a kneeling man with a bottle and cup, a man with a hound and whip, a dancing girl, etc. Condition: typical edge chips, cracks or fracturing. Still, the painted work remains bright, fresh, and essentially well-preserved. 
Price: 1750.00 USD
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Adventures of Benjamin F. Bear
2 Adventures of Benjamin F. Bear
New York Lord & Taylor Wraps Very Good 
N.d., circa early to mid-1940s. (Reference to Office of Price Administration, which existed between 1941 and 1947, and references to "Admiral Byrd Cloth", among other things, suggest the earlier part of this period.) 30 by 14 cm. Unpaginated, 24 pp. including wrap covers. Scarce, with no copies appearing on OCLC FirstServe. Loosely strung story about a cute cub who decides not to hibernate so that he can find out what autumn and winter are like in New York City, and all the fun he has as a result. On the rectos is narrated the story, while on the facing versos junior fashion items are illustrated and described, with the descriptions sometimes making allusion to the accompanying story. This was from a time when children in the city were dressed up in city clothes like miniature adults, and even play clothes, in which children could be children, had a certain flair that has largely vanished from our fashion scene. The illustration of both the children's fashion and the bear story are done in what can only be described as the breezy Lord & Taylor signature style, which was a perfect expression of the upscale department specialty store's image of comfortable elegance. At the time, this look was new, introduced by retail legend Dorothy Shaver, the first female president of a major retail chain. The story of the bear is not to be confused with a more recent, somewhat similar story with almost the same title. The story here may not be anyone's idea of sublime juvenile fiction -- it was probably written by a member of the store's marketing staff or its advertising agency -- but it does capture a moment in our culture very well indeed. Corner chips on the wraps. Darkening of the cover. Generally clean within. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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3 Antique Box and Feathered Ladies Mitt from Otto Huster, Importer and Manufacturer of Fancy Furs, Wholesale & Retail, No. 38 Maiden Lane, New York.
NA Near Fine and Fine 
N.d, but the latest date would be 1876 when the Otto Huster company filed for bankruptcy. The box itself is round like a hat box, with a blue paper pastedown label on top, and the round edges sewn together. Its dimensions are 23.5 cm tall, and 19 cm in diameter. The box has light abrasions and wear but is excellently preserved overall, with the label fully intact, its lettering perhaps faded but still easily legible and attractive. The mitt is an incredible survivor and would appear to not have ever been used. Because of its age, it has a delicacy that demands it be handled with care. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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Chic Parisien.  Journal Special Pour Modeles de Paris et Vienne.  Atelier Bachwitz.  Paris Vienna. Max Grab Fashion Co. Sole Agent for U.S.A. and Canada. New York Paraissant le 1er de chaque mois.  IXieme Annee.  American Edition of "Chic Parisien"
4 Chic Parisien. Journal Special Pour Modeles de Paris et Vienne. Atelier Bachwitz. Paris Vienna. Max Grab Fashion Co. Sole Agent for U.S.A. and Canada. New York Paraissant le 1er de chaque mois. IXieme Annee. American Edition of "Chic Parisien"
New York Max Grab Fashion Co. Josef Eberle, printer 1907 Wraps Very Good 
Elephantine Folio. 43 by 32 cm. [2 pp. illustrated ads], 8 pp., followed by 11 color plates, two of which are two paged. Excepting the two double paged plates, the plates also have b/w insets of rear views of the gowns being showcased, and on the versos of five of the plates are b/w fashion details and variants. (The other plates are blank on the versos.) One of the plates is an extra plate, not printed with this issue of the Chic Parisien. The American edition of the magazine was issued monthly, with two special supplements per year, issued in March and September. The issue here is one such supplement, issued in September (undated, but the text refers to the 1907 to 1908 season). Scarce, possibly because Max Grab was a retailer and so this was in a sense a cross between a magazine and a trade catalogue. The gowns, furs, and big, bold feathered hats are elegant, luxuriant and spectacular. The clothes were intended for the wealthy ladies to wear to balls, casinos, sporting events, luncheons, shopping and other outings, and the designs were entirely directed towards beauty. There was as yet no hint of rebellion, edginess, or slumming in the creations. Yet while dressy, many of the designs have simple, flattering lines, and many of the designs looked compatible with activity -- these are not uncomfortable, constraining garments to all appearances. One sees in the models, also, that a slender figure was gaining favor; no longer was the plumpness of the late 19th c;entury being idealized. Light wear. Two tape repairs at spine tips. 
Price: 600.00 USD
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Costume Francais de 1200 a 1715
5 Costume Francais de 1200 a 1715
London C. Hullmandel Full Morocco Fine 
12mo, 5.5 by 4.5 inches, or 14 by 11.5 cm. 100 hand-colored lithograph costume plates, all immaculate. Leaves are printed only on one side, and the plates resemble stylish costume cards. This book is usually found with only black and white plates. Other than minor toning along the edges, the thick paper looks virtually new. All is bound in a lush modern reddish-orange morocco, with gilt and incised decoration on both the boards and spine. The gilt figures incorporate the shape of the fleur-de-lys and come off both tastefully simple and elegant. The leather has a particularly substantial look, atypical of a book this size, and it is also in superb condition. The green marbled endpapers complete the package of this petit charmer. 
Price: 1500.00 USD
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6 Costumes et Moeurs des Differentes Nations. Ornes de 48 Gravures.
Paris Alexis Eymery 1826 First Edition Thus Half Morocco Good Plus 
32mo, 8 by 6 cm. 120 pp. The French equivalent of a rare English miniature -- Alfred Mills "Costumes of All Nations". Woodcut plates are simple and even naive but tend to depict people in some kind of activity. Thus there is the free black man making his slave climb a tree, a young "negress" playing ouri, Congolese carrying their cheif on a chaise, South Sea natives in mourning, etc. Leather is heavily rubbed. Cloth boards with scuffs and abrasions. Light occasional foxing and other minor soiling. Some leaves with minor corner creases. 
Price: 250.00 USD
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Costumes of British Ladies from the time of William the 1st to the reign of Queen Victoria
7 Costumes of British Ladies from the time of William the 1st to the reign of Queen Victoria
London Dickenson & Son Full Morocco Near Fine 
N.d., circa 1840. Folio, 48 hand-colored lithographed plates, some heightened in gilt, all mounted on card, as originally issued. Each accompanied by brief caption relating to authorities upon which illustration was based, and this caption is on separate leaf's verso, and there is a tissue guard sheet between this and the related plate. Title page with lovely hand-colored floral border. Followed by list of subscribers, which contains 171 names, and this must surely have been the extent of the entire issue since copies are extremely scarce. (Obviously the book has been mined many times as a breaker for plates.) The original gutta percha binding has been replaced with a sewn casing that is far more durable. Modern green full morocco and marbled endpapers. Gilt edges. Offsetting onto tissues. Small discreet library stamp on versos of plates -- otherwise no signs of ex-library whatsoever. Very occasional light fox marks. 
Price: 3000.00 USD
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Costumi della corte Pontificia
8 Costumi della corte Pontificia
Roma 1846 First Edition Paper Pastedown on folder Near Fine 
Leporello with 30 hand-colored images of Vatican costume, in addition to title with lovely colored decoration and cameo portrait of Gregorio XVI, which also helps date this as 1846 or earlier. The last leaf is pasted to a folder, which in this case has a distinctive faux burled wood (walnut-like) finish. The imagery is sharp, bright and clean. Some wear to the joints of the outer folder. 
Price: 650.00 USD
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Costumi della Corte Pontificia
9 Costumi della Corte Pontificia
Roma A. Depolette First Edition Presumed Quarter Calf. Marbled Boards. Very Good Plus 
N.d., circa 1840. Large paper version: folio, 34 by 23.5 cm. With 62 hand-colored costume plates, plus engraved title page with hand-colored vignette and dedication page with hand-colored portrait of Pope Pio IX. These images of Vatican dress, both which cover both ecclessiastic and military costume, are generally encountered in a far smaller, leporello format, with also fewer images -- typically thirty plates. In this other guise, the target audience were the many tourists who paid a visit to Rome and were enamored with a pocket souvenir. The diminutive leporello assuredly exudes enormous charm that has not diminished over nearly two centuries, but the images really do not quite match these original Marroni engravings with their excellent detailing and glorious hand-coloring, and we would stress, the coloring is not only brilliant, but also it would appear not to have lost one bit of lustre from the day it was applied to paper. Scuffs to leather. Newer marbled paper pastedown on boards. A small amount of scattered light soiling and/or foxing, mostly in the early leaves, such as there is. 
Price: 1650.00 USD
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Custom Tailoring.  Spring & Summer 1917.  B & K Co.  A National Institution
10 Custom Tailoring. Spring & Summer 1917. B & K Co. A National Institution
1917 Har. Cloth, string tie. Fair 
Folio, 46 by 35 cm. 16 color plates, 17 leaves in all, printing only on rectos. Fashions from the late 1910s, depicting male fashion from the era. Usually just one or two men in the foreground, but up to four men, sporting the fashions being promoted. The backgrounds have all kinds of upper crust settings and activities going on, and here there can be other men, as well as women, in the illustrations. So the illustrations take us to the beach and seashore, the boathouse, the country club tennis court and golf course, the riding ring, the country house. Men in sports jackets and boaters are shown in many of these illustrations, but there are also men in business suits and there are two plates of formal wear as well, both morning and evening jackets from a time when there was a difference! A final color plate presents a multitude of jackets, vests and slacks without a model -- there is just one man pictured in the mix. The last plate, uncolored, shows three caps and one casual hat. Whether or not one misses these fashions for actual wear, it is undeniable how visually appealing the fashions were. The men in the illustrations are of course young, and often scarcely out of puberty, and they are drawn with exaggeratedly elongated, svelte bodies, as was the ideal at the time. (Think of Sargent portraits.) Scarce -- no other catalogues from this company found on OCLC. Condition: cover worn and stained, with gilt lettering virtually entirely gone. A long three by one inch chip or loss on lower front joint, and roughness and surface lifting at upper part of this joint. First plate is heavily foxed. Afterward, there is a light corner dampstain affecting some of the plates, and some other soiling. By and large, though, the large illustrations are unaffected and remain highly appealing. 
Price: 250.00 USD
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Deluxe Uniforms Shane Catalog 649
11 Deluxe Uniforms Shane Catalog 649
Evansville, Indiana Shane Uniform Company 1949 Wraps Very Good 
4to. 29.5 by 22 cm. 40 pp., plus glossy wraps. 
Price: 400.00 USD
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12 Demorest's Monthly Magazine: 1866
New York W. Jennings Demorest 1866 Wraps Good 
Near miniature, measuring 3.25 by 2.5 inches, or 8 by 6.5 cm. 39 pp. With two color fashion plates, one showing Mme. Demorest's Mirror of Fashions, with a group of women and an infant in whale-boned gowns, and a second depiction a woman in equestrian costume, and many tiny woodcut illustrations of garments and accessories. Also interesting are the advertisements, including a small one for Steinway & Sons. Demorest's Magazine was like Godey's in its mix of fashion, domestic arts, stories, culture and general interest. Standing out is some emhasis on equestriana and sports suitable for women. With a separate dry goods specialty business (Mms Demorest's Emporium of Fashion), there was cross-fertilization in the web of family enterprises. One music score included herein, for "Song of the Fairies", has music written by WIllamina Vienna J. Demorest the first wife of William Jennings Demorest (1822 - 1895), the patriarch. William spearheaded a tleast five successful magazines, and with his second wife built up a clothing manufacturing and merchandising business. He was also a leader of the prohibition movement and once ran for mayor of New York. The cover has considerable wear and creasing, with a minor corner chip. The leaves within are age toned but mostly clean otherwise. 
Price: 185.00 USD
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13 Deutsche Volkstrachten. Eine Sammlung deutscher Trachtenbilder
Koln am Rhein Verlag Haus Neuerburg GMBH Wraps Very Good Plus 
Album 198 cigarette cards of German folk costume broken down by regions. Wraps with light soiling. A few flattened creases and two minor closed tears to rear of wraps. Interior clean, bright and complete. 
Price: 125.00 USD
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Fashions for Fall and Winter 1888-90.   Geo. A. Plummer & Co., 591 & 593 Washington St. Boston
14 Fashions for Fall and Winter 1888-90. Geo. A. Plummer & Co., 591 & 593 Washington St. Boston
Boston 1888 Leather Folder Very Good 
27 cards housed in a leather wallet-like bill fold, with the cards illustration women's and children's fashion on one side, with brief text descriptions and price info on the back sides. The bill fold is 13.5 by 8.5 cm, the cards, 12.5 by 7.5 cm each. The illustrations are in black and white. The fashions are numbered, so surely the bill fold was given to customers, along with suggested fashions for them. As a promotional tool, this was a variant on the typical catalogue, allowing for more customization. Its interest lies both in the fashion illustrations and the relative uniqueness of the marketing approach. We have found no records on the company, George A. Plummer, but it must have been a fairly sizeable enterprise since it occupied two street numbers on a major shopping corridor in Boston, and because it indulged in what must have been a fairly expensive marketing tool. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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Fashions of Distinction.  Quality Woolens for Fine Custom Tailoring Season of Fall and Winter 1937 1938
15 Fashions of Distinction. Quality Woolens for Fine Custom Tailoring Season of Fall and Winter 1937 1938
New York Reliance Woolen Co., Inc. Cardboard, Fine Spiral Very Good 
Folio-sized trade catalogue. 39 by 29 cm. Unpaginated. 40 pp., plus inside of card covers with content. Large color plates of mostly men's fashion, with some stylish women in their company, for the Town & Country set. In each of these plates is a backdrop inset depicting glamorous sporting and other cosmopolitan activities, many in New York, such as the idealized men and women might actively enjoy. So there are images of the Rockefeller Center skating rink, a private plane, an ocean liner, the Yale campus, college football, the downtown New York skyline, horseback riding in Central Park, etc. The fashions are late thirties, with fabulous men's suits, and when women's hems were on the longish side, and the sophistication is such that nowadays it seems hopeless ever re-capturing. In the back there are detailed descriptions of the garments of particular utility to those with a more technical bent. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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Fashions of Distinction.  Quality Woolens for Fine Custom Tailoring Volume 30-1
16 Fashions of Distinction. Quality Woolens for Fine Custom Tailoring Volume 30-1
New York Reliance Woolen Co., Inc., Glicksman Fashion Co., Inc. 1939 Cardboard, Fine Spiral Very Good 
Folio-sized trade catalogue. 39 by 29 cm. Unpaginated. 42 pp. Large color plates of mostly men's fashion, with some stylish women in their company, for the Town & Country set. In each of these there is a backdrop bespeaking the glamorous lifestyle: a-deck a yacht, at the horse races, at an idyllic college campus, at the country club, at a fabulous pool. The fashions are late thirties, with fabulous men's suits that are perhaps a little freer and more casual than a year or two earlier, as ladies' dress hems are moving up towards the knee. In the back there are suggestions for formal attire, a plage devoted to sport backs, and two pages devoted to ladies' trends. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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17 Feminine Fashions Past and Present
Cloth Very Good 
N.d., circa 1920. 4to. 32 by 24 cm. No title, as it was probably issued. Unpaginated, 22 pp., all with hand-colored illustrations of women's dress, hair-styles, etc. from 1600 to the late 1800s. This would appear a reprint, in a smaller format, of part of a work by H. Rouit, and perhaps this was issued privately, or by a non-publishing commercial concern. While the rendering of women's faces is undistinguished, the colors used in some of the garments are lushly rich, and as a visual survey of the three centuries, it is exemplary. 
Price: 150.00 USD
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Flyer for Lewis & Company, Liverpool, manufacturer of boys' clothing
18 Flyer for Lewis & Company, Liverpool, manufacturer of boys' clothing
NA Very Good 
N.d., circa 1860. Oblong, 14 by 24.5 cm. On one side is an illustration of seven boys sporting the company's high fashion of the moment, and the other side is info about the company and the offer to prospective customers to take the clothing on trial. Back to the illustration, the boys have the faces of Greek statuary, which represented an ideal of masculine beauty at the time, and hair of luxuriant wavy locks. Their pants taper down to tiny shoes -- the boys almost could be mistaken for having bound feet like upper crust Chinese women. The clothes on offer include a tunic suit, an inverness wrapper (a cape), coats, a Brighton suit, etc. The target market was boys 4 to 20. Age toning, and a touch of soiling. Two folds, as was probably how the advertisement was issued. 
Price: 20.00 USD
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Geschichte und Bildliche Vorstellung der Regimenter des Erzhauses Oesterreich
19 Geschichte und Bildliche Vorstellung der Regimenter des Erzhauses Oesterreich
Wien Reillychen geographischen Verschleiss Komptoir 1796 Full Morocco Fine 
8vo. 19 by 12 cm. 168 hand-colored copper engraved plates of Austrian military uniforms of all kinds -- infantry, cavalry, etc. -- from the eighteenth century, followed by 27 page register. Scarce -- only institutional copies found at Herzogin Anna Amalia, Coburg, BNF and Brown. 
Price: 7500.00 USD
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20 Goettinger Taschen Calender von Jahr 1778
Joh. Chr. Dieterich Stiff Card, Slipcase. Near Fine 
32mo. 10 by 6 cm. 100 pp. With 29 illustrated plates, 17 of which are grouped preliminarily and cover the extravagant ladies' hair styles of the day, the remainder spaced in the first half the text and generally carrying two oval vignette portraits on each one. Preserved, besides the original stiff card boards and probably the original endpapers is the decorative slipcase with its wallpaper pattern-like design. Light to moderate edgewear on the slipcase. 
Price: 2250.00 USD
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