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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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141 Sand, Maurice Masques et Bouffons (Comedie Italienne) Texte et Dessins Par Maurice Sand, Gravures Par A. Manceau, Preface Par George Sand (2 volumes)
Paris A. Levy Fils 1862 Quarter Morocco, pebbled cloth boards Very Good Sand, Maurice 
2 volumes, 4to. 28 by 19 cm. viii, 356, [2], 384 pp. 50 hand-colored plates featuring the stock characters of the improvisational Theatre Italienne such as Harlequino, Arlechino, Pulcinella, Colombine, Pagliaccio, Pierrot, Pantalon, L'Apothicaire, Le Notaire, Scaramuccia, Pasquariello, etc. Nowadays these characters are most familiar to opera-goers thanks to the comical works of Donizetti, Mascagni, Busoni, Mozart, etc. Most of these characters grew out of the roaming theatrical troupes that originated in Italy of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The costume and basic personality of the character remained stable from one performance to the next, but within those parameters the characters in a troupe, usually following the broad contours of a story line, would improvise bringing in buffonery perhaps relating to the events of the day, the specific venue where they were appearing, or whatever else might spring into their mind on the spur of the moment. In the eighteenth century the free form went into decline, replaced by more scripted plays, but its influence is very evident in the plays of Goldoni, Moliere (who worked well before the form vanished) and besides the opera buffa, early twentieth century Vaudeville, ballet, and more current comedy. Also, the costume from the Theatre Italienne has never failed to excite enthusiasm, and thus it is often celebrated in the decorative arts, as perhaps most magnificently, in porcelain, beginning in the eighteenth century with Meissen, Nymphenburg and many other makes. Today the style of Harlequin or Arlecchino continue to be emulated in clothes design with some regularity. This two volume celebration of the costume and characters of this theater was written by Maurice Sand, who was the son of the novelist George Sand, who wrote the preface. Maurice Sand (1823 -1889) was an accomplished illustrator and writer in his own right. Occasional soiling, sometimes toning around perimeter outside of tissue guards, which have survived remarkably well. Rubbing along joints, and moderate wear of boards. Very handsome marbled painting of edges. 
Price: 2000.00 USD
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Masques et Bouffons (Comedie Italienne) Texte et Dessins Par Maurice Sand, Gravures Par A. Manceau, Preface Par George Sand (2 volumes), Sand, Maurice
142 Sand, Maurice Masques et Bouffons (Comedie Italienne) Texte et Dessins Par Maurice Sand, Gravures Par A. Manceau, Preface Par George Sand (2 volumes)
Paris A. Lévy Fils 1862 Half Morocco Very Good Sand, Maurice 
All the plates are here rendered in three states -- full hand-colored, black and white, and sepia and white! 2 volumes, 4to. 28 by 20 cm. viii, 356, [2], 384 pp. 50 hand-colored plates, and 100 additional in the two other formats, featuring the stock characters of the improvisational Theatre Italienne such as Harlequino, Arlechino, Pulcinella, Colombine, Pagliaccio, Pierrot, Pantalon, L'Apothicaire, Le Notaire, Scaramuccia, Pasquariello, etc. Nowadays these characters are most familiar to opera-goers thanks to the comical works of Donizetti, Mascagni, Busoni, Mozart, etc. Most of these characters grew out of the roaming theatrical troupes that originated in Italy of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The costume and basic personality of the character remained stable from one performance to the next, but within those parameters the characters in a troupe, usually following the broad contours of a story line, would improvise bringing in buffonery perhaps relating to the events of the day, the specific venue where they were appearing, or whatever else might spring into their mind on the spur of the moment. In the eighteenth century the free form went into decline, replaced by more scripted plays, but its influence is very evident in the plays of Goldoni, Moliere (who worked well before the form vanished) and besides the opera buffa, early twentieth century Vaudeville, ballet, and more current comedy. Also, the costume from the Theatre Italienne has never failed to excite enthusiasm, and thus it is often celebrated in the decorative arts, as perhaps most magnificently, in porcelain, beginning in the eighteenth century with Meissen, Nymphenburg and many other makes. Today the style of Harlequin or Arlecchino continue to be emulated in clothes design with some regularity. This two volume celebration of the costume and characters of this theater was written by Maurice Sand, who was the son of the novelist George Sand, who wrote the preface. Maurice Sand (1823 -1889) was an accomplished illustrator and writer in his own right. Provenance: this copy comes from the heirs of John James Audobon. The initials "V.A." are stamped on both front boards; these initials probably refer to Victor Gifford Audubon Jr. (1847-1915), the artist's grandson. Condition: some minor scuffs and abrasions on the leather spine, shelfwear on the edges. A few some, light soil spots here and there, but overall, quite clean and bright. 
Price: 2500.00 USD
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Ett Ar I Sverige:  Taflor Af Svenska Almogens Kladedragt, Lefnadssatt Och Hemseder. Samt De for Landets Historia Markvardigaste Orter; Tecknade Af J. G. Sandberg, Beskrifne Af A. Grafstrom, Och Utgifne Af C. Forssell, Sandberg, J. G., A. Grafstrom, C. Forssell
143 Sandberg, J. G., A. Grafstrom, C. Forssell Ett Ar I Sverige: Taflor Af Svenska Almogens Kladedragt, Lefnadssatt Och Hemseder. Samt De for Landets Historia Markvardigaste Orter; Tecknade Af J. G. Sandberg, Beskrifne Af A. Grafstrom, Och Utgifne Af C. Forssell
Stockholm Frans Svanstrom 1864 Quarter Leather Very Good 
4to - over 9¾. Book. 103 pp, with 48 colored lithographic plates, mostly with peasent costumes from Dalarna, Helsingland, Lappland, Södermanland, Westergöthland, Småland, Blekinge and Skåne, but also genre scenes and a few of architectural interest. Some light occasional foxiing, but generally clean and plates would all be of frameable quality. Binding is tight. Corners and edges have wear. Overall very good copy of a delightful and charming costume plate book. 
Price: 595.00 USD
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Disfraces, Sassone, Felipe. Illustrations by Viera Sparza, Rikardo, Mairata, Baldrich, Victorina Duran, R. Drivan, Barbero, Lopez Rubio, etc.
144 Sassone, Felipe. Illustrations by Viera Sparza, Rikardo, Mairata, Baldrich, Victorina Duran, R. Drivan, Barbero, Lopez Rubio, etc. Disfraces
Spain 1935 Wraps. Stapled. Very Good 
Whimsical, often colorful, magazine publication on masks and masquerade costumes of all types -- Romantic costumes, humorous costumes, ballroom garb, fantasy attire, historical, juvenile, Hispanic and other national types, etc. Folio. 36 by 27 cm. Unpaginated, 22 pp., including wraps. With a few black and white photos of models in some of the costumes. These photos were taken by various photographers in Vienna, which makes us think the magazine, while Spanish, borrowed from other similar publications. We have not been able to find other copies of this publication, this issue or another, on OCLC First Search. Notably absent too is any information on where exactly it was published, when, by whom. 
Price: 100.00 USD
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Gallerie altteuscher Trachten, Gebruche und Gerathschaften, nach zuverlassigen Abbildungen aus den vorigen Jahrhunderten. Als ein Beitrag zur Geschichte der Sitten gesammelt und mit historischen Erlauterungen begleitet von einigen Freunden des teutschen Altertums., Schlichtegroll [Adolphe Heinrich Friedrich], ed.
145 Schlichtegroll [Adolphe Heinrich Friedrich], ed. Gallerie altteuscher Trachten, Gebruche und Gerathschaften, nach zuverlassigen Abbildungen aus den vorigen Jahrhunderten. Als ein Beitrag zur Geschichte der Sitten gesammelt und mit historischen Erlauterungen begleitet von einigen Freunden des teutschen Altertums.
Leipzig Industrie Comptoir 1801 or 1802 Cloth Very Good 
Very scarce hand-colored plate book of German costume. 8vo. 78 pp. 25 hand-colored plates (plates are not in order, but all are present). Colas 2667. Lipperheide 654. The costumes are from the Early Renaissance period, or the early 16th century, and all represent court dress. The figures in the plates have an austerity of expression and modeling that is in harmony with works of art from the period(s) depicted, and much of the beauty of the plates flows from this restraint. This copy combines what were two installments and is complete. Contemporary cloth spine, over marbled boards. Light wear to the binding. Text leaves have light foxing, not disconcerting. Plates have occasional light soiling, but overall impression is clean, and all the plates remain attractive. 
Price: 2800.00 USD
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Kongl: Svenska Riddare Ordnarnes Gragter Svenska Ordens-Costymer, Schutzerschrantz, Adolf Ulric
146 Schutzerschrantz, Adolf Ulric Kongl: Svenska Riddare Ordnarnes Gragter Svenska Ordens-Costymer
Stockholm Gjothstrom & Magnusson 1833 First Edition Half Cloth, Marbled Paper Pastedown on Boards Very Good 
Uncommon costume plate book. Elephantine Folio. 47 by 30 cm. Eight hand-colored lithographs of the dress associated with different chirvalric orders in Sweden, plus hand-colored armorial decoration on title page. Colas 2697. Generally clean and bright plates. Moderate to heavy wear to cover, with edge-loss of paper pastedown, scuffs, etc. 
Price: 1250.00 USD
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147 Shaw, Henry Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages (Two Volumes)
London William Pickering 1843 First Edition Full Morocco Near Fine 
With 94 hand-colored plates in addition to many hand-colored vignettes and devices scattered throughout the text. Very clean and tight. Modern blue morocco with raised bands and green spine labels. Marbled endpapers. The title page of Vol II has a perforated library label of the Hill Library St. Paul. Otherwise, the only other evidence of a former library home is possibly a number stamp on the bottom of thefpage following the title pages of each volume. 
Price: 1800.00 USD
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148 Shaw, Henry Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages (Two Volumes)
London William Pickering 1843 First Edition Half and Full Leather Good + 
An unmatched set, volume one half red morocco and slightly larger in size, and volume two full black morocco. With 94 hand-colored plates in addition to many hand-colored vignettes and devices scattered throughout the text. Some foxing, mostly in the prelims. Ex-lib, with only evidence a perforated library stamp on the title of volume one. 
Price: 650.00 USD
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Deutschlands Heer und Flotte in Wort und Bild.  Germany's Army and Navy by Pen and Picture.  1899., Sigal, Gustave A.;  contributions by Major-General von Specht
149 Sigal, Gustave A.; contributions by Major-General von Specht Deutschlands Heer und Flotte in Wort und Bild. Germany's Army and Navy by Pen and Picture. 1899.
Akron, OH The Werner Company 1900 1st Edition Hardcover Fine No Jacket 
Book. Elephant Folio - over 15 - 23" tall. Text in German and English, with one column on each page devoted to each. Original pictorial cloth. 17.5 by 13.5 inches (44 by 35 cm); [8], 181 pp., with 42 fine, bright chromolithographic plates of military costume, ships, and troops on parade, drilling, on horseback, reconnoitering and scouting, bivouacking, in the field and barracks, engineering -- in short, these are far more than static costume illustrations but rather ones that depict action scenes. Published by Werner, which was a leading German American publisher in the late nineteenth century that began by publishing a German newspaper in the U.S. This, being a bilngual publication, was perhaps the company's most opulent book that clearly was aimed at appealing to Teutonic patriotism of the immigrant community well before the First World War squelched this type of fervor. Similar chromolithography "Wort und Bild" books were also being published in Germany itself, such as ones celebrating the Franco-Prussian War,yet this particular title is artistically superior to much of the genre. It might also be observed that the genre was not unique to German culture. (I.e. Ogden's Uniforms of the Army, depicting American army costume throughout the nineteenth century, published just a few years earlier.) Again, for dynamism and beauty of the image, this title is hard to beat. Some binding wear, and joints repaired at extremities. Interior is tight and extraordinarily clean. Plates are pristine, and even the tissue guards may be described so. 
Price: 950.00 USD
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The Costume of Hindostan Elucidated by Sixty Coloured Engravings:  With Descriptions in English and French, Taken in the Years 1798 and 1799., Solvyns, Balt. [Balthazar]
150 Solvyns, Balt. [Balthazar] The Costume of Hindostan Elucidated by Sixty Coloured Engravings: With Descriptions in English and French, Taken in the Years 1798 and 1799.
London Edward Orme. Printed by J. Hayes 1807 First Full Morocco Very Good 
Folio, 365 x 255 mm. 60 hand-colored stipple or soft-etched engravings. Explanatory text for each plate on separate leaves, with English on recto, French on verso. Contemporary straight-grained dark green morocco, with blindstamped and/or gilt borders and centerpiece decoration. Light offsetting, as typical, and occasional light spotting. Rebacked unobtrusively, with original spine preserved. Corners also restored. A few scuffs to leather otherwise. Generally a clean and attractive copy. 
Price: 5000.00 USD
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The Work of Stowitts for The Fox God.  Lyric Ballet in 3 Acts. Poem by Templeton Crocker.  Music by Joseph Redding, Stowitts, Hubert Julian
151 Stowitts, Hubert Julian "Jay" The Work of Stowitts for The Fox God. Lyric Ballet in 3 Acts. Poem by Templeton Crocker. Music by Joseph Redding
Hollywood, CA George Palmer Putnam Inc. 1939 Limited Signed Edition Buckram cloth Near Fine 
No. 371 of 400 limitation. Printed by Bernard Freres and plates engraved by Deichel-Ploquin in 1928. Folio, 15.5 by 13.5 inches, 40 by 34 cm. 44 pp, followed by 50 color plates with text on versos. With a total of 53 tipped-in, full page color plates, and 6 other tipped-in color illustrations, along with some red and gilt text illustrations or ornamentation. This is an elaborately produced, unique volume containing the classic Chinese Opera "Fay-Yen-Fah", along with the traditional designs, costumes and decor, as illustrated in Stowitts decorations and color plates. Hubert Julian "Jay" Stowitts (1892-1953) was a true polymath -- a gifted athlete, he willed himself to become a dancer after being swept away watching a performance, and within a few years he was discovered by the famed Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova and traveled as a successful dancer throughout the Americas and Europe, becoming the first American to star with a Russian ballet troupe. After a solo career, Stowitts retired from dancing and began a new career as a painter and occasional film actor. He traveled and lived in the Far East and South Asia, where he produced 155 paintings he called "Vanishing India." At the 1936 Olympics in Berlin, his exhibition of fifty-five paintings of nude male American athletes caused a "sensation." The Nazis closed the exhibit down, partly because it showed depictions of Jewish and African-American athletes. Stowitts was fascinated by Eastern religion and philosophy and much of his later work reflects his exploration of these ideas. In this Stowitts can be viewed rightly as a kind of visionary and precursor for ideas that gained wider acceptance in the West in the 1960s and after. The buckram binding, which appears to be a bit later, has washed out color and minor deterioration in the front upper spine area and a few limited spots of washed out discoloration. Otherwise, the binding is tight and the interior is bright and fresh. 
Price: 2450.00 USD
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A Complete View of the Dress and Habits of the People of England from the Establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the Present Time:  Illustrated by Engravings Taken from the Most Authentic Remains of Antiquity, To which is Prefixed an Introduction, Containing a General Description of the Ancient Habits in Use Among Mankind, From the Earliest Period of Time to the Conclusion of the Seventh Century. (Two Volumes), Strutt, Joseph
152 Strutt, Joseph A Complete View of the Dress and Habits of the People of England from the Establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the Present Time: Illustrated by Engravings Taken from the Most Authentic Remains of Antiquity, To which is Prefixed an Introduction, Containing a General Description of the Ancient Habits in Use Among Mankind, From the Earliest Period of Time to the Conclusion of the Seventh Century. (Two Volumes)
London Henry G. Bohn 1842 Full Morocco Near Fine 
Two volumes, 4to. vi, 279 pp. With a total of 153 hand-colored plates, most of them brilliantly so, with the use of gold leaf it would appear in a good many. This is an augmentation of an earlier edition from 1796 by ten plates, and the quality of the coloring further enhances the desirability of this edition. All the plates called for are present, but at least in this copy they are not in order, and in the second volume in particular it might seem that the original compiler had had too much mead as he was inserting the plates. The eccentric ordering, nonetheless, should not greatly diminish one's reveling in the images, and at the end of the second volume there is a list of all the plates and their sources. Inconspicuous embossed library seal stamp affected a few leaves of both volumes. A few tissue guards, text leaves and plate margins (and the backs of a few plates) have light foxing. An insignificant amount of other soiling. The overwhelming majority of plates are clean and fresh. Modern full blue morocco without flaws. 
Price: 2750.00 USD
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153 Susane, Louis. Philipoteaux, illustrator Histoire de l'Ancienne Infanterie Francaise. Atlas de 151 Planches
Paris Librairie Militaire de J. Correard 1856 First Edition Quarter Morocco, Marbled Boards Near Fine 
8vo. 24 by 16 cm. Altas volume only. Generally clean and tight. 
Price: 350.00 USD
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154 Tremadeure, S. Ulliac Journal des Jeunes Personnes XVIIe Annee Publie Sous la directio morale et litteraire de Mlle. S. Ulliac Tremadeure Tome 3e de la 2e Serie.
Paris Au Bureau du Journal. Imprimerie de Beau. 1849 First Edition Cloth Very Good Minus 
8vo. 384 pp. Nine full color plates (3 are of embroidery patterns, one of the plates is a fold-out). Eleven fold-out embroidery designs. Several fold-out song scores. Text with general interest and advice pieces for young ladies. A few of the embroidery fold-outs are now detached from the book. Scattered foxing, and toning throughout. Boards are rubbed and scuffed and don't lay flat, which is to be expected with the thickness of the many-fold-outs within. Edgewear to the boards. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] Dry Manhattan Trencher Tailored Coats.  Weatherproofed for Better Service.  Trencher Tailored Dry Manhattan Coats for the Miss and Junior are Best of All, Trencher Inc. (Kenneth M. Trencher)
155 Trencher Inc. (Kenneth M. Trencher) [Trade Catalogue] Dry Manhattan Trencher Tailored Coats. Weatherproofed for Better Service. Trencher Tailored Dry Manhattan Coats for the Miss and Junior are Best of All
New York 1952 First Edition Cloth Very Good 
A handsome catalog, replete with fabric samples, from the New York garment center in its heyday (during the last decade before its contractors and manufacturers looked for cheaper labor abroad). No copies located on OCLC. Folio. 13.75 by 11.25 ins, 35 by 29 cm. 16 pp., all on heavy card stock. With 83 fabric swatches (not counting three squares with swatches now missing). Photographically illustrated title, followed by ten photo plates. Kenneth Trencher heavily advertised his line of Dry Manhattan Coats in Glamour and Vogue during the period. The photographs present models in gloves, hats, jewelry, and other accessories of the period, providing a great textile and fashion reference. The models themselves are slim, wholesome, perky, of course youthful and pretty, and unquestionably they represent an early fifties ideal. Samples include wool, cashmere/wool blends, Alaskan seal fur/ wool blends by Forstmann, Tweeds, Alpaca, Orpaca, Camel, Chinchilla, etc. Original manufacturers post-binding, diagonal pink & black cloth pattern on front cover. Minor bumping to corners, light shelfwear. Other than three missing samples, a few others have minor damage. Kenneth Trencher heavily advertised his line of Dry Manhattan Coats in Glamour and Vogue during the period, including such coats as the Traveler, the Voyager, the Guardsman, the Miracle Orpaca coat made from Alpaca. The photographs present models in gloves, hats, jewelry, and other accessories of the period, providing an invaluable textile and fashion reference. 
Price: 495.00 USD
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The Costume of the University of Oxford, Illustrated by a Series of Engravings from Original Drawings by Thomas Uwins.  To which is prefixed a brief account of the members and officers of that university., Uwins, Thomas
156 Uwins, Thomas The Costume of the University of Oxford, Illustrated by a Series of Engravings from Original Drawings by Thomas Uwins. To which is prefixed a brief account of the members and officers of that university.
London R. Ackermann 1815 First Edition Quarter Morocco Fine 
Folio-sized, measuring 13.5 by 10 inches, 34 by 25 cm. With 17 hand-colored plates of academic dress, which was then more nuanced by position and status. Included are doctor in divinity, doctor in in physic, doctor in law, doctor in music, master of arts, bachelor of arts, a nobleman, a gentleman commoner, a commoner, a student in civil law, a scholar, a proctor, a servitor, a collector, a vice chancellor, beadles and a verger. While the palette of costume is more muted and restrained than typifies other Ackermann costume collections of the time, the plates are both elegant and evocative of Regency style and ideals. The text and plates are clean. Modern brown calf over marbled boards. A hard to come by title in lovely condition. 
Price: 1500.00 USD
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L'Eventail, Uzanne, Octave
157 Uzanne, Octave L'Eventail
Paris A. Quantin 1882 First Edition Three Quarters Morocco Near Fine Avril, Paul 
4to - over 9¾. Book. First edition, with printing in 1881, issue in 1882. 141 pp. Magnificent relic of the Belle Epoque. Heavy paper, three-quarters navy morocco binding by Root & Sons, just a smidge rubbed along spine joint, and slight corner wear, or book would be fine. Charming Paul Avril two tone illustrations throughout, with brilliant half title color plate, rich in gilding. (Also in my inventory is a companion volume of Uzanne, Avril, L'Ombrelle") 
Price: 500.00 USD
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L'ombrelle, Le Gant, Le Manchon, Uzanne, Octave
158 Uzanne, Octave L'ombrelle, Le Gant, Le Manchon
Paris A. Quantin 1883 First Edition Three Quarters Morocco Fine Avril, Paul 
4to - over 9¾. Book. 138 pp. Printed in 1882, date given for issue 1883. First edition. Handsome 3/4 navy morocco binding by Root & Sons. Charming Paul Avril two tone illustrations throughout, and brilliant half-title color plate, rich with gilding. Heavy stock paper. Ribbon book mark intact. Stunning book production and relic from the Belle Epoque! 
Price: 500.00 USD
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La Francaise Du Siecle: Modes Moeurs Usages, Uzanne, Octave
159 Uzanne, Octave La Francaise Du Siecle: Modes Moeurs Usages
Paris A. Quantin 1886 First Edition Full morocco Near Fine Lynch, Albert (aquarelle); Eugene Gaujean (color ill) 
4to - over 9¾. Book. xvi + 276 pp., original wraps bound in to full highly ornate burgundy morocco. Inside front board has extraordinary full gilt decoration, surrounded by gilt border dentelles, with two plush velvet labels, one with title, other, author's name. Five raised bands on spine. Boards have corners with intricate gilt tracery. Gorgeous color plates, 9 including frontis, and additional color and/or aquarelle illustrations at chapter heads. Interior is pristine, binding tight. Some rubbing to by joints and light shelfwear. Marbled flypaper attractive. Blank preliminary sheet with small tear by hinge and inked inscription note. Overall, Fine. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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Les Modes De Paris:  Variations Du Gout et De L'Esthetique De La Femme: 1798-1899, Uzanne, Octave
160 Uzanne, Octave Les Modes De Paris: Variations Du Gout et De L'Esthetique De La Femme: 1798-1899
Paris Societe Francaise d'Editions D'art; L. Henry May 1899 Cloth Very Good Courboin, Francois 
8vo - over 7¾. Book. iv +242 pp., 100 full page color plates, depicting women's fashion throughout the nineteenth century. A delightful, eye-filling traversal of Paris fashions from yesteryear. Plates are all very clean, with pages age toned. Cloth binding is tight. Original title page has neat thin strip cut from bottom. Illustrated paste ons on boards and spine have some soilage, with dime sized loss of illustration on rear cover. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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