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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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161 Uzanne, Octave. Illustrated by Francois Courboin. Translated by Lady Mary Loyd Fashion in Paris. The Various Phases of Feminine Taste and Aesthetics from 1797 to 1897. With One Hundred Hand-Coloured Plates. Two Hundred and Fifty text Illustrations.
London William Heinemann 1898 First Edition Half Morocco over Marbled Boards Very Good Courboin, Francois 
4to. 182 pp., plus 100 color plates, depicting women's fashion throughout the nineteenth century. A delightful, eye-filling traversal of Paris fashions from yesteryear. Some occasional foxing. Most plates and text leaves are clean. Binding is tight. Blue morocco spine decorated with Fleur-de-lys. Spine somewhat dry. Rubbing of leather pronounced along gutter. Some additional edge and corner wear. 
Price: 375.00 USD
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162 Varagnac, Andre, preface; Designed by E. Lepage-Medvey; Translated by Mary Chamot French Costumes [together with eight hand-colored cards of French costume pasted onto the endpapers]
London, Paris, New York The Hyperion Press 1939 First Cloth Very Good very good Jacket 
16 pp of text (pp 7 to 23) followed by 40 brightly colored plates (13 by 9 inches, or 31 by 23 cm) on hard card stock showing traditional dress of the various regions of France. Each plate is accompanied with a separate sheet of light paper with a caption. As an extra bonus a prior owner pasted (lightly) eight cards with hand-colored images of women in French peasant dress. These cards are 9 by 13 cm. The print technology used for the plates coming with the book was photo lithography. The text comes with a still useful bibliography of costume books. This copy is disbound but otherwise the plates are all in fine condition. Minor wear, creases and like to some of the caption sheets. DJ with minor corner chips and now protected with mylar. As to the cards, they have some minor soilage (light fingerprint, dust, etc.). One has a small corner chip. Presumably they came in two envelopes which are also pasted to the rear endpaper. 
Price: 65.00 USD
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French Costumes [together with eight hand-colored cards of French costume pasted onto the endpapers], Varagnac, Andre, preface;  Designed by E. Lepage-Medvey; Translated by Mary Chamot
163 Varagnac, Andre, preface; Designed by E. Lepage-Medvey; Translated by Mary Chamot French Costumes [together with eight hand-colored cards of French costume pasted onto the endpapers]
London, Paris, New York The Hyperion Press 1939 First Wraps Fine very good Jacket 
16 pp of text (pp 7 to 23) followed by 40 brightly colored plates (13 by 9 inches, or 31 by 23 cm) on hard card stock showing traditional dress of the various regions of France. Each plate is accompanied with a separate sheet of light paper with a caption. Clean and tight copy, with only the lightest of soiling of the wraps. 
Price: 65.00 USD
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164 Viollet-le-Duc, Eugene-Emmanuel Dictionnaire Raisonne de Mobilier Francais de L'Epoque Carlovingienne a La Renaissance (6 volumes)
Paris A. Morel & Cie. 1872-1875 Quarter Morocco over Marbled Boards Very Good 
Over 2000 illustrations including wood engravings, steel engravings and chromolithographs of costumes, heraldic emblems, tile designs, utensils, fabrics, musical instruments, armour, weapons etc. One of the major references on the applied arts of the medieval and renaissance eras. Viollet-le-Duc himself was responsible for the restoration of Carcasonne, Reims Cathedral and many other important architectural and historic sites in France. Indeed, Viollet-le-Duc was a seminal figure in the very notion of preserving the architectural remains of the past without which our modern notions of cultural tourism would be inconceivable. From these projects and his copious writings he had an influence on architectural and preservation thought on par with Pugin, WIlliam Morris or John Ruskin, but of these three only Pugin had anything like the practical hands-on experience of Viollet-le-Duc. VLD's approach was the antithesis of especially Ruskin's, though. While Ruskin argued for a purity of vision which scoffed at adaptations and mixing of styles that he believed misrepresented the past, VLD's practice and philosophy was looser and more geared to sprucing up and beautifying, without too much bother with the niceties of the historical accuracy of the result. In other words, he was not reluctant to "improve" upon the past to make something more pleasing to the senses. Notwithstanding the popular appeal of VLD's work, it has suffered some critical opprobrium from the professional establishment which has in recent years embraced Ruskin's views as gospel. Fortunately, the utility of this set doesn't hinge on one's stance on these things, and it surely attests to the incontroverible erudition and breadth of appreciation of VLD. (8vo) 9.5 by 6.5 inches. The overall title is misleading, for furniture is just one part of the treatment, basically handled in the first volume. The second volume deals with all kinds of utensils, ceramic, musical instruments, some armor (jousting gear, etc.). Vol 3 and 4: costume, jewelry, toilette. Vol 5 and 6: armor. (8vo) 9.5 by 6.5 inches. Within the greater sections there are entries and articles arranged alphabetically. Raised bands, spines lettered in gilt, top edges gilt, original wrappers bound in Some scuffing and wear to leather. Light foxing scattered throughout. 
Price: 950.00 USD
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Die Mode im Wandel von vier Jahrhunderten, Wagner, Jutta
165 Wagner, Jutta Die Mode im Wandel von vier Jahrhunderten
Berlin Daco Verlag 1948 Box Near Fine 
N.d., but circa 1948. Each century is represented with a folding card that houses a leporello containing 16 color fashion plates of costumes from that century. The folder contains brief descriptions of each card. Thus there are four folders and four leporells, with a total of 64 fashion plates. In addition there is an oblong brochure, also in leporello form (with four leaves) which provides a broader overview of the four centuries of fashion history. All this is housed in a box whose overall appearance (without consideration for condition) is of an earlier era. Each fashion plate is 5.5 by 4 inches, or 14 by 10 cm, and these are in fine condition, as are the folders within which they belong. The only condition issue of this very scarce and attractive set is of the box, which has chipping along the edges of the decorative paper that was pasted to the boards, and two edges, one of the lid, the other of the inner box, have been replaced so as to restore the functional integrity of the box. The 9 by 6 by 1 inch box, taken by itself, is thus in fair to good condition. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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Female Beauty, as Preserved and Improved by Regimen, Cleanliness and Dress; and Especially by the Adaptation, Colour and Arrangement of Dress, as Variously Influencing the Forms, Complexion, & Expression of Each Individual, and Rendering Cosmetic Impositions Unnecessary., Walker, Mrs. A.  Revisions by Sir Anthony Carlisle.
166 Walker, Mrs. A. Revisions by Sir Anthony Carlisle. Female Beauty, as Preserved and Improved by Regimen, Cleanliness and Dress; and Especially by the Adaptation, Colour and Arrangement of Dress, as Variously Influencing the Forms, Complexion, & Expression of Each Individual, and Rendering Cosmetic Impositions Unnecessary.
London Thomas Hurst 1837 Half Morocco. Marbled boards. Near Fine 
8vo. 19.5 by 12 cm. xxxvi, 432 pp. 12 plates, all but one hand-colored, and ten of these can really be counted as two plates, with a top plate with a peek-a-boo window on an overlay leaf, allowing an underlying head to serve two contrasting costumes or modes of dress. The frontis plate is mounted onto a leaf with a restored corner -- the corner had neatly snapped off. Slight dryness to spine, and a few minor rub spots on the edge of the binding. Otherwise, clean, tight copy. 
Price: 650.00 USD
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Kostumkunde:  Geschichte Der Tracht Und Des Gerathes Vom 14ten Jahrhundert Bis Auf Die Gegenwart (2 volumes), Weiss, Hermann
167 Weiss, Hermann Kostumkunde: Geschichte Der Tracht Und Des Gerathes Vom 14ten Jahrhundert Bis Auf Die Gegenwart (2 volumes)
Stuttgart Verlag Von Ebner & Seubert 1872 First Edition Cloth Very Good 
8vo - over 7. Book. 2 volumes, xL + 1432 pp. Far more than treatise on costume. Also treats styles, ornament in decorative arts more generally. Breakdown by country and time period. VG overall. 
Price: 80.00 USD
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Walk-Over Shoe Prints. A Magazine with a Purpose.  July August 1921, William T. Card, editor
168 William T. Card, editor Walk-Over Shoe Prints. A Magazine with a Purpose. July August 1921
Campello, MA Geo. E. Keith Company 1921 First Edition Wraps Very Good 
8vo brochure (23 by 15 cm), 84 pp plus wraps cover, profusely illustrated with black and white photos and illustrations and four pages with color. Illustrations are of shoes made by the company, its stores, interior and exterior, windows, ads, models, miscellaneous. The George Keith Company of Campello MA was a successful shoe manufacturer that issued this magazine for almost two decades as a promotional vehicle, combining advertising and trade catalog-like information with articles, poems and short stories that not very subtly related to footwear and the company's products. Although issued for a good number of years, this is a true piece of ephemera in terms of scarcity, with OCLC showing the only institutional holding at the New York Public Library. Its interest lay in the marketing approach, more public relations or like today's infomercial than a blatant ad, in the shoe fashions of the day, and an insight into the shoe trade of the day -- a company's history, culture, etc. Light soiling to the white front and rear cover, with the trace of a name scribbled in blue pencil across the front top. A trivial closed tear on front cover and minute dent affecting its side and some leaves afterward. Otherwise clean and tight. 
Price: 125.00 USD
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169 Yosy, A. Switzerland, As Now Divided into Nineteen Cantons; Interspersed with Historical Anecdotes, Local Customs, and a Description of the Present State of the Country. . . . Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners of the Swiss, Illustrated in Fifty Coloured Engravings of the Costume. To which is added a short guide to travellers. (Two Volumes in One)
London J. Booth; J. Murray 1815 First edition Half Morocco, Marbled Boards Very Good 
Large 8vo. 24 by 17 cm. viii,236, 211, [1] pp. With 50 hand-colored plates. Two plates of musical notation. Colas 3102. Rubbing along joints and spine extremities. Moderate to heavy shelfwear. Clean internally. 
Price: 1650.00 USD
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Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manner of the Turks, [Alexander, William]
170 [Alexander, William] Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manner of the Turks
London John Murray, Albemarle Street; Printed By W. W. Bulmer and Co. 1814 First Hardcover Very Good 
Book. v pp (preface), followed by 59, of 60 hand-colored plates called for. Missing Plate 1, "The Kislar Aga". Each plates accompanied by English description on separate leaf. Plates measure 10 by 6.5 inches (book is large octavo). Plates include Sultana or Odalisk, ladle-bearer, musician, first dragoman, the mufti, a Jew, a dervise, a Tartar, and on and on. They are both entertaining, both to gaze at and to read about, and they bring alive the past of a radically different world from the present in a way that no dry historical tome or even a diverting historical novel can do alone. The red half leather is a crude morocco and has some chipping, cracks and wear. Gilt title on spine is likewise only functional, and while bright, is not appealing. Leather is over marbled boards which have some wear but are acceptable. Binding is tight. Plates and text pages with some light soilage scattered but for the most part they can be described as just acceptably age toned. Preliiminary pages have a bit more foxing. Other than missing plate, a very good copy. 
Price: 725.00 USD
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171 [Alexander, William] Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manner of the Turks Illustrated in Sixty Coloured Engravings, With Descriptions.
London John Murray, Albemarle Street; Printed By W. W. Bulmer and Co. 1814 First Full Calf Very Good 
8vo. 23.5 by 16.5 cm. v, [3] pp., followed by 60 hand-colored costume plates, each accompanied by English description on separate leaf. Plates include Sultana or Odalisk, ladle-bearer, musician, first dragoman, the mufti, a Jew, a dervise, a Tartar, and on and on. They are both entertaining, both to gaze at and to read about, and they bring alive the past of a radically different world from the present in a way that no dry historical tome or even a diverting historical novel can do alone. Condition: rebacked sympathetically. Original blindstamped calf boards preserved, with edges rubbed. Light scattered soiling of the pages, but mostly clean, with light age toning. 
Price: 1250.00 USD
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172 [H. A. Ogden, attributed, uncredited artist] Uniform of the Army of the United States 1882 Prepared Under the Instructions of the Quartermaster General
Philadelphia Thomas Hunter Lith. 1882 First edition Blindstamped cloth. Very Good 
Oblong 4to. 27 by 35.5 cm. 4pp. of text. Ten chromolithographic color plates. Followed by nine black and white plates. Light wear to cloth, with minor loss in corners, and a slight amount of blistering of the cloth. Clean within. 
Price: 850.00 USD
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