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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners of the Russians Illustrated by Sixty-Four Coloured Engravings, with Descriptions
41 Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners of the Russians Illustrated by Sixty-Four Coloured Engravings, with Descriptions
London James Goodwin Full Morocco Very Good 
4to, 9.5 by 7 inches, 24 by 17 cm. 64 plates, each accompanied by a page or two of description (on separate leaves). Colas 2358. This is derived from the same title published by John Murray in 1814, which itself was based closely on the work published by Miller in 1803 and the plates of Georgi from the 1770s (Colas 1223). Notwithstanding the derivative nature of the plates, as hand-colored stipple prints they are exquisite, with color that to this day springs off the page and delights. Leather on spine is dried out and rubbed by extremities. Rubbing of gutter areas. Boards' leather still healthy. Binding is tight, and notwithstanding some minor scattered soiling of leaves, text and plates overall quite clean and fresh. Gilt foreedges. 
Price: 1150.00 USD
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Plates from "Les Modes Parisiennes"
42 Plates from "Les Modes Parisiennes"
Paris 1853-1869 Quarter Morocco. Marbled paper over boards. Very Good 
A bound collection of 137 hand-colored plates. Royal 8vo. 26.5 by 19.5 cm. Plates almost always feature two comely women in the latest Parisian fashion, with an evocative background, both interior and exterior. The backgrounds have coloring, but generally less color than the women and especially their gowns, which were intended as the primary focal point of the illustrations. While this is not a complete compendium of the illustrations from the magazine during the period, the plates are generally arranged in consecutive order (until the end, when they revert to earlier dates), allowing us to observe the gradual changes in fashion, with the dresses slowly becoming less full and bell-shaped. Condition: age toning around edges. A few minor, inconspicuous edge chips. Minor occasional spotting. Modern quarter morocco binding has gilt decoration on spine and is in fine condition. 
Price: 1250.00 USD
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See Yourself in Gabardine.  Homeland Tailors, Inc.
43 See Yourself in Gabardine. Homeland Tailors, Inc. "Built on Principle"
Stiff Wraps Very Good 
N.d., 1930s, when double beasted suits first came into fashion. (They were a more dominant fashion in the forties, but the cuts here, and the majority of jackets not being double breasted, squarely place this catalogue in the thirties.) Folio, 32 by 25 cm. Five leaves within, with swatches and illustrations only on rectos. Stiff wrap covers are unusual, with a translucent, mica-like window with the image of a well-dressed man, wearing a double breasted suit and panama hat, impressed on it. Also unusual is how there are spirals on both the left and right, and the front cover opens from the left, or the opposite of the normal manner, while the interior leaves open on the right. Five swatches on all leaves but the top one, which has a single swatch, and the first subsequent leaf, which is missing one of its five. Also illustrations of beau brummel-ish men swaggering in their tailored wear. Abrasion on the leaf with the missing swatch, with some of the lettering above this space affected. 
Price: 150.00 USD
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Shell-shaped folding trade card or small booklet for Waller & McSorley, 245 Grand St., N.Y., Importers and Manufacturers, ladies' and children's garments, etc.
44 Shell-shaped folding trade card or small booklet for Waller & McSorley, 245 Grand St., N.Y., Importers and Manufacturers, ladies' and children's garments, etc.
New York Printer: Burrow, Giles Lith. Co. NA Fine 
N.d., circa 1890. As a shaped "booklet", 20 cm at its tallest and 13 cm at its widest. A chromolithographic illustration of a well-dressed girl and her spaniel on the front, and another girl and her Siamese cat on the rear, both framed by shell borders, with the aesthetic decidedly Victorian Rococo. Within are listed the departments on the company's store on the left page, and there are two illustrations of ladies' suits on the right, with more detailed info below. 
Price: 65.00 USD
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Snug-lers Felt Footwear 1924
45 Snug-lers Felt Footwear 1924
Atlanta, GA United States Rubber Company 1924 Wraps Near Fine 
A trade catalogue for women's slippers, many fit for casual outdoor wear as well as traditional domestic comfort. 8vo. 20 pp., plus separate 4 page price list effective January 1st, 1924. Three of the pages are comprised of colorized photos, which serves as a "Color Chart", and the rest of the pages show the many styles with black and white photos. The wide array of styles include many timeless ones as well as some that now appear dated. Some are precursors of today's trendy "Uggs", while others are like more elegant "driving shoes" made by Tod's. The color palette available is impressive, with some colors quite unusual or striking, with designations such as "Mikado" and "American Beauty". The catalogue should be of interest to both the fashion historian and the present-day footwear designer who might find inspiration here. No copies located on OCLC. Minor rubbing of the spine fold. Clean and fresh otherwise. 
Price: 200.00 USD
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Taschenkalender auf das Gemein-Jahr 1817.  Mit Kupfern geziert.
46 Taschenkalender auf das Gemein-Jahr 1817. Mit Kupfern geziert.
Berlin? Leipzig? Actual publisher unnamed. Herausgegeben von der Königl. Preussischen Kalender Deputation 1816 First Edition Card. Marbled paper pastedown. Slipcase with sa Near Fine 
Miniature finger almanac measuring 690 by 280 mm. Unpaginated, with 27 leaves, twelve of which contain fine stippled copper engraved costume plates of Arab, Abyssinian or Indian dress. Also vignette on title page. Otherwise, following a short two page exegesis on the upcoming eclipses for 1817, a fairly typical table of days for the year furnishing the saint names associated with each day. Welsh 6591. Scarce, with no copies for this year found anywhere, and a single copy found for any year (1814) at the University of Michigan. With slipcase, which is sheathed in the same marbled paper as on the cover of the book itself. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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Taschenkalender auf das Gemein-Jahr 1819.  Mit Kupfern geziert.
47 Taschenkalender auf das Gemein-Jahr 1819. Mit Kupfern geziert.
Berlin? Leipzig? Actual publisher unnamed. Herausgegeben von der Königl. Preussischen Kalender Deputation 1818 First Card. Marbled paper pastedown. Slipcase Near Fine 
Miniature finger almanac measuring 690 by 280 mm. Unpaginated, with 27 leaves, twelve of which contain fine copper engraved costume plates of Turkish, Afgani, Uzbeki -- Central Asian -- dress. Also vignette on title page. Otherwise, following a short two page exegesis on the upcoming eclipses for 1819, a fairly typical table of days for the year furnishing the saint names associated with each day. Scarce, with no copies for this year found anywhere, and a single copy found for any year (1814) at the University of Michigan. Not listed on Welsh. With slipcase. Near Fine. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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The Book of the Ranks and Dignities of British Society.  Lately Attributed in the Press to Charles Lamb.  With an Introductory Note by Clement Shorter With Eight coloured plates and sixteen in monochrome
48 The Book of the Ranks and Dignities of British Society. Lately Attributed in the Press to Charles Lamb. With an Introductory Note by Clement Shorter With Eight coloured plates and sixteen in monochrome
New York Charles Scribners Sons. Printed at the University Press, Cambridge, England by W. Lewis 1924 Hardcover. Paper pastedown Very Good Minus 
1920s reprint of 1809 title on English heirarchy and aristocratic privileges and ritual published originally by Tabart & Co. 8vo. 17.5 by 11 cm. 136 pp. Wear on spine, with tears to paper pastedown and small chip of spine label. Some moderate loss to paper pastedown on board, and moderate soiling. 
Price: 20.00 USD
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The Costumes of Mankind Designed and Created New York Costume Co.
49 The Costumes of Mankind Designed and Created New York Costume Co.
Chicago New York Costume Co. Printer: The William I. Marsh Co., Inc. Wraps Good 
Costumes, historical, theatrical, masquerade, of every type imaginable! Zulus, convicts, Pilgrims, Crusaders, Pierrot, and on and on! N.d., circa 1920. 4to. 30 by 22 cm. 16 pp., including wraps. The catalogue shows costumes in blue, with some orange highlighting, and up to a dozen costumes per page, with a vignette illustration relating to the general theme of the costumes on the page. For example, the Costumes from the Opera page has an illustration from Faust, and the Early American page shows Columbus landing in America. Scarce, with no copies located anywhere. Closed tear along joint fold, as typical of wraps, and light soiling to the cover. 
Price: 200.00 USD
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50 The Court Magazine and Belle Assemblee, Containing Original Papers, By Distinguished Writers, and Finely Engraved Portraits, Landscapes, and Costumes, From Paintings by Eminent Masters. Volume VII. From July to December, 1835.
London Edward Churton 1836 First Edition Half Calf over Marbled Boards Very Good Plus 
8vo. xxiv, 268 pp. (Roman numeral leaves mixed in.) With nine hand-colored fashion plates and nine steel engravings. A clean and tight copy. 
Price: 145.00 USD
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The Crosby Frisian Fur Company Rochester, N.Y.
51 The Crosby Frisian Fur Company Rochester, N.Y.
Wraps Near Fine 
Taxidermy and fur garments trade catalogue, with explanatory material on sources, manufacturing, styles and uses of the garments and other products. A highlight is a whole section devoted to "Roosevelt African Trophies". N.d., circa 1910. 4to. 26.5 by 20 cm. 46, [1] pp. The cover comes across as very modern, with a close up photo of fur that somehow reads as modern and thus gives the initial impression that the brochure is of more recent vintage than in fact it is. With large photos of the fabrication process, in addition to photos of non-model human models wearing the coats, and of articles shown without models. Also many testimonials. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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Thorgersen Hosiery Co. Thoro-Test Trade Catalogue Leading Styles for Fall and Winter 1937
52 Thorgersen Hosiery Co. Thoro-Test Trade Catalogue Leading Styles for Fall and Winter 1937
Chicago 1937 
4to. 11 by 8.5 inches, wraps, 32 pp. featuring robes, sweaters, pajamas, nightgowns, bloomers, brassieres, briefs, ties, shirts, mufflers, stockings, socks, etc. with many fabric samples pasted in and intact in this copy. A clean and tight copy. 
Price: 225.00 USD
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Yacht Colors of the World, [together with] Fancy Dress Ball Costumes, [together with] Musical Instruments of the World (Three books in one)
53 Yacht Colors of the World, [together with] Fancy Dress Ball Costumes, [together with] Musical Instruments of the World (Three books in one)
Durham, NC and New York W. Duke, Sons & Co. Printed by Knapp & CO., NY First Edition Wraps Very Good Plus 
N.d., circa late 1880s. Oblong 8vo. (7 by 10 inches, 17 by 26 cm.) 22 pp., plus wraps, which also have chromolithographic imagery. Reproduction of three different series of cigarette cards issued by the Duke company, which was a pioneer in the mass production of cigarettes and the namesake of Duke University, among other things. Cigarette cards were a promotional tool of cigarette companies, and as an extra gift of sorts with the purchase of a box of cigarettes, an instant collectible. In the these three book renderings of the cards, the cards are artfully placed on the page with a backdrop of period arts and craft decoration that also incorporates, and accentuates, the theme of the particular collection of cards. Thus with the Yacht series, we have some sailing motives as well as more generic Morris-esque decoration. Slightly more elaborate, and also impressive, is the background used for musical instruments. In cards from all three series, comely women are featured, and in the first two series, the women are all famous and popular actresses of the day, and they are identified by name. (In the third series, they are unnamed but probably actresses as well.) Thus we find the likes of Lillian Russell, Mojeska, Julia Marlowe, and many other former celebrities whom posterity has not treated so kindly. From the images of these women, whether or not named, we catch a glimpse at a past standard of beauty, and one that is quite a different aesthetic from our own, although many of the women depicted would still undoubted be soft on the modern eye. The fancy dress ball series is probably the most visually interesting, with its idiosyncratic, eccentric hats that play on literally and loosely a designated name such as "The Watermelon", with a quarter watermelon atop Rose Coghlan's head, "What's the Ante", with five cards afloat Nanine Palmer's coif, or "The Glorious Fourth", with rocket shapes arising from the noggin of Violet Cameron. On the other hand, the musical instrument series is the most visually integrated of the three, with its lively backsplashes of color. Most of the leaves have eight to ten card images, with four of the leaves feature a single image of a lovely pulchritude. The imagery is entirely on the rectos, excepting the rear wrap. Rebacked with cloth. Corner chip on rear cover by spine. One minor closed tear also on rear cover. Minor wear besides. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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Zur Geschichte Der Costume Nach Zeichnungen Von Wilh. Diez, C. Frohlich, C. Haberlin, M. Heil and Muller, F. Rothbart, J. Watter, Colorierte Ausgabe
54 Zur Geschichte Der Costume Nach Zeichnungen Von Wilh. Diez, C. Frohlich, C. Haberlin, M. Heil and Muller, F. Rothbart, J. Watter, Colorierte Ausgabe
Munich Verlag Von Braun & Schneider 1880 Decorated Cloth Very Good 
Folio - over 12. Book. Circa 1880s, undated. 123 double-paged (16.5 by 13.5 inches each) color illustrated plates of historic costumes from all over the world. Each plate has four groupings of people, the groupings anywhere from two to a half dozen. Also, separate soft bound index of 32 pages. This breaks things down by land/region and then by century. A great reference for theater, film design, museum, etc. Binding tight. Pages clean, toned. One plate with tiny tear not affecting images. Green cloth binding has some soilage. Repair along upper front joint closing tear. Because of quality of interior, overall very good. (I counted 123 plates, but possible I undercounted in hurry. Plates are numbered from 305 to 1218, with many numbers missing. The logic of inclusion is inscrutable to me, but there is a wide cross-section included here.) 
Price: 475.00 USD
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[Faux Book] Album Collar.  Reversible Collar Company, Boston, Mass.
55 [Faux Book] Album Collar. Reversible Collar Company, Boston, Mass.
Boston 1870 Blindstamped Cloth Very Good 
A most unusual book-shaped box created to house a collar, with a plush round well within to place the collar. On the spine written in gilt is "Album 15 Collar", while the Album Collar and Reversible Collar Co. are blindstamped onto the front board, along with a gilt image of a collar. The sides are all marbled. The box is a perfect simulacrum of a book from the era. The faux book was made in three color variants -- blue, green, and the red of this example -- with the colors corresponding to different collar sizes. The dimensions are 4.25 by 4 by 2 inches, or 11 by 10.5 by 5 cm. On the inside endpaper is printed a patent history of the company going back to the early nineteenth century, and this item, an improved collar made of combined cotton cloth and paper, was patented in 1870. See Dubanksy, "Blooks", p. 44. There is light black soiling on the red cloth boards and other light wear. An owner's name is written in a light pencil on the top of the FEP label. 
Price: 450.00 USD
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[Faux Book] Album Collar.  Reversible Collar Company, Boston, Mass.
56 [Faux Book] Album Collar. Reversible Collar Company, Boston, Mass.
Boston 1870 Blindstamped Cloth Very Good 
A most unusual book-shaped box created to house a collar. The Album Collar Reversible Collar Co. is blindstamped onto both the front and rear boards, along with a gilt image of a collar. The sides are all marbled. The box is a perfect simulacrum of a book from the era. The faux book was made in three color variants -- blue, green, and the red of this example -- with the colors corresponding to different collar sizes. The dimensions are 4.25 by 4 by 2 inches, or 11 by 10.5 by 5 cm. On the inside endpaper is printed a patent history of the company going back to the early nineteenth century, and this item, an improved collar made of combined cotton cloth and paper, was patented in 1870. See Dubanksy, "Blooks", p. 44. Missing the plush satin lining in the well where the collar would have been placed. Wear along the edges. Minor paper loss to marbled paper. 
Price: 135.00 USD
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[Leporello] Schweizer Trachten.  Costumes Suisses.  Swiss Costums.  Costumi Svizzeri
57 [Leporello] Schweizer Trachten. Costumes Suisses. Swiss Costums. Costumi Svizzeri
Marbled paper pastedown on thin boards. Slipcase. Very Good 
N.d., mid-19th century. 10 by 7 cm. 24 hand-colored panels. The illustrations stand out, among such costume-oriented leporellos, for their precise detailing, and also each features two or three men or women, generally engaged in some activity, and so they have a bit more dynamism than the norm for such fare. One can say that these are modest genre paintings. Costumes represent various cantons or cities -- Uri, Vaud, Valais, Appenzell, Bale, etc. The colors are especially vivid and bright. Scarce -- no copies located on OCLC First Search. The leporello proper has a glossy marbled paper on its exterior. The paper is Victorian for sure, but we can not attest to its being original to the object. The slipcase has a paper pastedown title label, with colored armorial decoration and foliate baroque styled ornamentation for the border. There is no publisher or place of publication indicated, and nothing is written in the leporello itself to provide the least hint. Condition: light wear. Presumed complete. 
Price: 475.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue]  H. O'Neill & Co., New York
58 [Trade Catalogue] H. O'Neill & Co., New York
Wraps Fine 
Chromolithographic die-cut covers and hat catalogue within from a 19th century department store. N.d., circa 1890s. At tallest and widest, 17 by 13. 5 cm. Unpaginated, 20 pp., plus wraps of thicker stock. The front and rear cover have bright chromos. The front, four good-looking children framed by fauna and flora, the rear, a pretty young lady wearing the kind of hat featured within the catalogue. Each page following the title has an illustration of a woman wearing an elaborate millinery concoction and below two plainer straw hats are shown by themselves. The notion is to show the basic hat and then how it can be dressed up with ribbons, faux flowers and other trimmings. The center pages have a textual pitch for the department store, with its departments listed. H. O'Neill was located at 6th Avenue and 20th Street. The store dates back to 1870, and its large building on Sixth Avenue went up in 1887. It was then the first full blockfront building in the neighborhood. While the store was merged with competitor Adams Dry Goods in 1906, its building survives to this day. 
Price: 185.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] A la Grande Maison.  Spécialités pour Enfants.  Été 1910. Exposition Universelle Paris 1900 Premier Grand Prix
59 [Trade Catalogue] A la Grande Maison. Spécialités pour Enfants. Été 1910. Exposition Universelle Paris 1900 Premier Grand Prix
Paris La Grande Maison 1910 Wraps Fine 
Squarish 8vo. 17.5 by 15.5 cm. 24, [2] pp. Illustrations of fine tailored clothing for boys and girls back when sailor suits and more formal adult dress was lightly pared down for children. There are also knickers and riding habits. Most of the plates show idealized handsome, composed children, all exuding confidence, and the older ones very ready to assume positions of status and responsiblity in the adult realm. The outfits all have evocative names as well, such as the Maxime, the Roosewelt [sic], the Norfolk, the Chantilly, etc. Several plates are just of hats and shoes. With the color image of a boy hunter accompanying a pack of dogs, this is a most charming trade catalogue. 
Price: 185.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] Catalogue of "Princess" Ladies' Shirt Waists.  1908.   The Princess Waist Co., 392 Broadway, New York
60 [Trade Catalogue] Catalogue of "Princess" Ladies' Shirt Waists. 1908. The Princess Waist Co., 392 Broadway, New York
New York 1908 Wraps Near Fine 
If you thought Joan Crawford had broad shoulders! Shirtwaist designs with shoulders wider than those of an NFL offensive line man in uniform, tapering off to a waist the circumference of a slender street lamp pole. Thus one can see that extreme physical ideals are not a recent invention! Oblong, 12 by 17 cm. Unpaginated, 32 pp., plus wraps. Each page shows two drawn models wearing different styles of shirtwaists or elaborate blouses as were a fashion staple of the day. The flouncy, lacey, frilly shirts may bring to mind fancy table cloths. While in a quick leafing through the catalogue one might get the impression of a lot of sameness among the designs, a closer inspection reveals the intricacy and richness of these designs. One curious design is one that features vertical rows of swatikas. Of course the swastika didn't have the fraught negative symbolism it would acquire two decades later. The women depicted look like Gibson Girls, other than their proportions are far more exaggerated, with as we said, impossibly broad shoulders and narrow waists. The catalogue, while entirely in black and white, is a lovely production, as elegant in its execution as the designs represented within come across. It was directed at retailers, as the shirts depicted are priced by the dozen. Condition: a touch of browning to the edges of the green wraps. Otherwise, clean, tight, fresh. 
Price: 150.00 USD
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