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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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[Trade Catalogue] Regent Shoes.
61 [Trade Catalogue] Regent Shoes.
London Wraps Very Good 
Kinkier boots than those in "Kinky Boots", with extreme heels which require a woman to walk or dance on point! Shoes for exotic dancers with bound feet! N.d., 1960s. 8vo. Unpaginated, 24 pp., including wrap covers. Some styles are more conventional, while others would seem to anticipate the angles of Jimmy Choo and other modern purveyors of five inch heels. But it is the shoes with no toe bend that stand out in this catalogue, which shows its wares in both photos and drawn illustrations. Moderate wear. 
Price: 100.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] Robes & Manteaux.  Gaillard, Lecomte & Cie. Fabricants.  Paris.  Maison A. Bulteau
62 [Trade Catalogue] Robes & Manteaux. Gaillard, Lecomte & Cie. Fabricants. Paris. Maison A. Bulteau
Paris Gaillard, Lecomte et Cie. First Edition 
N.d., circa 1880s. Folio, 44 by 33 cm. 18 hand-colored color fashion plates, each loose within folio, as was how originally issued. Unknown whether this is a full complement. 
Price: 750.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] The Anderson Shoe
63 [Trade Catalogue] The Anderson Shoe
Baltimore, MD Anderson Shoe Co. 1918 Wraps Very Good 
64 pp., and wraps. 14 by 8 cm. High button shoes for the ladies and men, along with a host of other styles, some familiar, others quaint. One or two styles featured on most pages. Also peddling a raincoat. Testimonials at end. Some tinting of the shoe illustrations. Rear wrap and center leaf with light soiling. 
Price: 45.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] Wedding Veils of enchanting loveliness by Leff & Jason
64 [Trade Catalogue] Wedding Veils of enchanting loveliness by Leff & Jason
London 1951 Wraps Very Good 
8vo. 8 pp., including wraps. With short cover letter and order form, envelope for order, etc. Unusual catalogue inasmuch as it is almost entirely devoted to veils, with one page given to brides head-dresses (tiaras). 
Price: 45.00 USD
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????? ??????????? ??????, ?????????, ?. ?. , and ?. ?. ?????????
65 ?????????, ?. ?. , and ?. ?. ????????? ????? ??????????? ??????
?????? 1952 Hardcover. Cloth spine. Paper pastedown, with so Very Good 
A catalogue, and course on, knitwear, for men, women and children, including sweaters, jackets, dresses, etc. 4to. 108 pp. 58 styles shown on 47 plates, about half of which are in color. Ex-library, with a few markings but none bothersome. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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66 A. P. D. G. Sketches of Portuguese Life, Manners, Costume, and Character. Illustrated by Twenty Coloured Plates.
London Geo. B. Whittaker 1826 First Quarter morocco. Marbled boards. Very Good 
8vo. 22.5 by 15 cm. xxv, 364 pp. 19, of 20, hand-colored plates. Other than missing plate, a lovely copy. Modern tan quarter morocco. Raised bands, gilt decorative devices in compartments. Marbled paper pastedown on boards. Usual offsetting of plates. Minor light scattered soiling. Mostly clean. Plates bright. 
Price: 750.00 USD
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The Fourth Book of Mary Susan, A. Taylour-Smith
67 A. Taylour-Smith The Fourth Book of Mary Susan
London Wraps Very Good 
Scarce clothing store promotion in the guise of an original children's story, with color plate illustrations. No copies found on OCLC or elsewhere, of this book or the implied earlier books. N.d., 1920s. 8vo. 21.5 by 13.5 cm. 16 pp. 
Price: 185.00 USD
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Danseuses de l'Opera Costumes des Principaux Ballets Dessines par Alophe, Alophe, Marie-Alexandre [also known as Alexandre Menut Alophe] (1812-1883)
68 Alophe, Marie-Alexandre [also known as Alexandre Menut Alophe] (1812-1883) Danseuses de l'Opera Costumes des Principaux Ballets Dessines par Alophe
Paris Au Bureau du Journal Les Modes Parisiennes. Printed by Imprimerie Auguste Bry. Typography: Henri Plon First Edition Wraps, with Custom-Made Folder Very Good 
N.d., circa 1850. Colas 103 gives an earlier date, 1838, but this is improbable based on some of the dancers and roles depicted. Fourteen hand-colored plates of the leading ballerinas of the day, all in performance: Taglioni, in La sylphide (a role she created in 1832); Rosati, in Corsaire; Ferraris, in des Elfes; Zaina Richard, in Marco Spada; Marquet, in Marco Spada; Marquet, in le ballet du Dieu et la bayadère; Fiocre, in L'amour de Pierre de Medicis; Cassegrain, in Marco Spada; Emarot, in Guillaume Tell; Emma Livry, in Herculanum; Caroline, in Marco Spada; Plunkett, in La mañola de La favorite; Vibon, in le ballet Vert-Vert; and Lefevre, in Orfa. Aided by the restrained use of color, which bears a similarity to how photographs would be hand colored, the illustrations have a near-photographic quality, and they thereby convey to us the physical aesthetic that prevailed in the mid-nineteenth century on the dance stage. Measuring 34 by 25 cm. The green wraps have a paper infill where there was edge chipping and tearing. Spine paper now gone. After heavy soiling on the first tissue guard, though, the plates are all clean and bright, and other than tiny corner creases, without issue. A handsome tan cloth custom-made box now houses the book. 
Price: 2950.00 USD
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Sammlung Fahnen-und-Standarten-Trager, Alva Bilder
69 Alva Bilder Sammlung Fahnen-und-Standarten-Trager
Bremen Yosma GMBH, Alva Cigaretten Paperback Near Fine 
Book. Oblong 11 By 9 Inches. Circa 1930 Tobacco card album from Alva Cigaretten, Orientalische Cigaretten Compagnie, "Yosma" GMBH, Bremen, complete with 192 bright colorful tobacco cards of German military costumes from the Middle Ages until 1914. Other than minor soilage and wear on the wraps, fine condition. 
Price: 100.00 USD
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70 Anne Adams. Portland Evening Express Pattern Department Portland Evening Express: Anne Adams Book of Patterns.
New York Portland Evening Express 1933 Wraps Very Good 
39 pp. Typical magazine size, 12 by 9.5 inches. Full of women's fashion, with some children's as well. Many illustrations are tinted in various colors. Superb and unusual reference for fashions of 1933 and early Depression period. Small margin loss on one leaf where there was paper clip, and slight stain on following leaf from this clip. Minor soiling and wear besides. 
Price: 75.00 USD
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71 Anon. After Wencelaus Hollar Aula Veneris. Sive Varietas Foeminini Sexus diversarum Europae Nationum. The Court of Venus; or, Varieties of the Female Sex of the Different Nations of Europe
1830 Full Straight-Grained Morocco Very Good 
An exquisite manuscript copy of plates from the 1644 work by Wencelaus Hollar. While a copy, the pen-and-ink work here is absolutely exceptional, requiring a loupe or magnifying glass to fully appreciate the niceties of detailing achieved by the artist copier. It is also clear that this copier did not merely trace the original work. Heightening the pen-and-ink work are touches of watercolor. 8vo. 173 by 117 mm. Unpaginated, half-title, page with a handwritten copy of the verse from "The Merchant of Venice entitled "The Folly of Fashion, the Deceit of Ornament or Appearance", second title copied from the 1644 work, followed by 36 mounted pen and ink copies of fashion etchings from the 1644 work, and a final page with a drawing of a trophy and two musings written out. The drawings, besides being meticulous with near-microscopic detail, are austere, with the pen and ink work heightened with only touches of flesh color for the women's faces and tiny dabs of gold for jewelry, buttons and the like. The austerity, we would stress, is befitting the fashions represented, as the early and mid-17th century was a time that garments tended to be more monochromatic and sober, meant to suggest piety , as any student of portraits from this era, coincident with the Puritan Revolution and religious wars on the continent, would have absorbed. And we would add, the austerity is not just of the dress, but also, the expression on the women depicted here. The flesh color applied to the faces and also hands is just as nuanced as everything else about these portraits. There is a gradient of coloration, capturing very realistically the actual pigment of human flesh. The one exception to the limited color usage is a depiction of a woman from Virginia, a Native American, whose bare garment is painted red and who is wearing jewelry that is captured with bolder applications of gold. This exotic specimen also shows a woman with a tattoo on her arms, something that was completely alien from European cultures at the time. The Virginian is not the only non-European depicted, however, as there is a woman from Algiers, a Moresco woman, an Argentinian. Also shown is a Turkish woman, and the dress shown is from different strata of the societies represented. Short cursive handwritten captions identify for us where the model is from. All the handwriting, including on the title, the poem, etc. is rendered in a tight, minute script. Unfortunately, there is no indication who the artist copyist was, other than the initials PC by several of the drawings. In the front there is an ownership inscription of an Elizabeth Cobbett. There is a watercolored bookplate with the Hillman family crest. 
Price: 3250.00 USD
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Vingt-Cinq Costumes pour le Théâtre, Barbier, Georges.  Preface by Edmond Jaloux.  Frontis portrait of Barbier by Charles Martin
72 Barbier, Georges. Preface by Edmond Jaloux. Frontis portrait of Barbier by Charles Martin Vingt-Cinq Costumes pour le Théâtre
Paris Bloch and Meynial 1927 Limited First Edition Heavy Wrappers. Very Good Plus Good Jacket 
No. 185 of 275 copies. 4to. 32 by 24 cm. 25 tipped-in pochoir costume plates by Barbier. Lettered tissue guards. Colas 218. The artwork is all dated to the early post-World War One period, into the early 1920s. Captured here is the fantasy spun by the costuming, so at odds with the parsimonious theatrical zeitgeist of the present when it seems so much of classic theater and opera is willfully updated to the unglamorous present day. Not that the costumes here are entirely unrelated to the then contemporary styles -- one can discern the cross-fertilization of costuming with fashion effortlessly, though, through Barbier's fluent presentation. Barbier focuses on the escapist element of theater, and his renderings usher us on this excursion. The plays represented include works by Rostand and Hugo, among others. Original pictorial wrappers. Closed tear of joints by extremities, with the longer tear at the base (about 6 cm in length). Glassine dust jacket mostly intact, but with several tears and chips, especially by the lower portion of the rear cover, and then by the spine extremities and neighboring joints. Frontis portrait of Barbier has flattened cornered crease. Otherwise, the plates, most importantly, are very clean and bright. 
Price: 5000.00 USD
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Danske Uniformer., Berghs, Th.
73 Berghs, Th. Danske Uniformer.
Denmark Wöldikes Forlags Expedition 1864 First edition Blindstamped Cloth Good Plus 
13 by 11 cm. Fifteen panels, including title page, each with hand-colored illustrations. The title page features a trophy assortment of military wares. All the other plates are of two or three men, and occasionally a horse, in military regalia, showcasing all the wings of the Danish military. Scarce, with only three copies located on OCLC First Search (Brown, BNF). Wear to the cloth binding. Age toning to the paper. Light pencilled in "captions", by a previous owner, stating what the uniforms represent. 
Price: 750.00 USD
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74 Bonnard, Camille. Illustrations by Paul Mercuri. Introduction, and possibly revisions by, Charles Blanc Costumes Historiques des XIIe, XIIIe, XIVe et XVe Siecles Tires des Monuments les Plus Authentiques de Peinture et de Sculpture Dessines et Graves par Paul Mercuri (3 Volumes)
Paris A. Levy Fils 1860-1 Quarter Morocco, Marbled Boards Very Good Minus 
4to. 32 by 27 cm. 200 hand-colored engraved costume plates. Plates depict both famous personages such as Petrarch and types of characters and professions of the period. Also, as typical of the ambitious color plate costume books of the era, a number of plates are not of fashion but rather, historic scenes, rituals, and other aspects of Medieval culture. Colas 377. One quarter contemporary red morocco. Marbled boards. Bindings repaired, including a repair of one joint, and of the hinges generally. Rubbing and wear to binding. Scattered foxing, affecting some plates, ranging from trivial and light to occasionally a moderate level. Most plates read clean, however. 
Price: 1400.00 USD
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La Russie, ou Moeurs, Usages et Costumes des Habitants de toutes les Provinces de cet Empire (6 Volumes) Ouvrage orne de cent-onze planches, representant plus de deux cents sujets, graves sur les dessins originaux et d'apres nature, de M. Damame-Demartrait, peintre francais, auteur et editeur des maisons de plaisance imperiales de Russie et Robert Ker-Porter, peintre anglais, inventeur des Panoramas.  Extrait des ourvrages anglais et allemands les plus recens par M. Breton, Breton de la Martiniere, Jean-Baptiste Joseph (1777-1852)
75 Breton de la Martiniere, Jean-Baptiste Joseph (1777-1852) La Russie, ou Moeurs, Usages et Costumes des Habitants de toutes les Provinces de cet Empire (6 Volumes) Ouvrage orne de cent-onze planches, representant plus de deux cents sujets, graves sur les dessins originaux et d'apres nature, de M. Damame-Demartrait, peintre francais, auteur et editeur des maisons de plaisance imperiales de Russie et Robert Ker-Porter, peintre anglais, inventeur des Panoramas. Extrait des ourvrages anglais et allemands les plus recens par M. Breton
Paris Nepveu 1813 Full Calf Very Good 
8vo. 13.5 by 8.5 cm. With 111 engraved plates, 105 of which are hand-colored, and many are also folding. (Note that not all copies of this work, same edition, have color plates.) The plates include costume-oriented, genre scenes, architecture (yurts to palaces), and views of Moscow, St. Petersburg and small towns and countryside, and as noted in the very long title, based on artworks by French painter M. F. Damame-Demartrait (1763-1827), with the views after original works by English artist Robert Ker-Porter (1777-1842), who also, we would add, served as a historical painter to the Tsar himself. Colas 436. Brunet I 1226. The binding is a handsome contemporary (or near contemporary) navy blue full calf, with gilt ruled borders on the boards and gilt floret decoration on the spine, making this a set with a most attractive shelf presence. There is occasional foxing and soiling within, which cumulatively, scarcely detracts. The coloring in the plates is bright and rich. 
Price: 6000.00 USD
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Silhouettes Militaires.  De la Révolution et du 1er Empire Collection Bernard-Franck, Brisquet
76 Brisquet Silhouettes Militaires. De la Révolution et du 1er Empire Collection Bernard-Franck
NA Very Good 
An magnificent collection of 20 military costume mixed media oil paintings that were once part of a major French collection of militariana. N.d., 1830 to 1860 -- these were nostalgic portraits created during the reigns of Louis Philippe and Louis Napoleon (Napoleon III). Brisquet, the artist, apparently was set-up on the esplanade by les Invalides, certainly a logical place for a creator of military-related bric-a-brac to set up shop, so to speak, and seek to sell his wares. A variety of sizes, ranging in height between 34 and 45 cm, and width, 10 to 29 cm. We have 21 panels in all, with one containing a short textual description of the group. By mixed media, we are referring to the application of cut-outs, made mostly of very thick card, on board, giving the portraits and accessories a dimensionality. Some of these applied pieces are movable -- arms in particular -- or were meant to be so. Largely by dint of these cut-outs, the portraits have a folk art or naive quality. The soldiers are shown carrying firearms, flags, musical instruments, etc. Seldom is the portrait without some other element of interest, and always the background is enriched with a landscape suggestive of a rural battlefield or training ground. The portraits are all by the same artist, Brisquet, and they all are done in the same style. Based on the short explanatory panel, which describes him as a "Tir", which translates as a shooter, we would surmise that he was himself a veteran and possibly a resident himself of les Invalides. Portrayed are the following military figures, rendered in the original French and translated to English if needed: Generale Barthélemy Catherine Joubert, General Eduard Mortier (unlabeled on front), two panels of grenadiers (without further specificity), grenadier hollandais, grenadier de la Vistule (Polish grenadier), tirailleur (sharpshooter), sapeur de dragons, lancier Espagnol, fusilier, inspecteur aux regnes, porte-drapeau (flag bearer), tombour des volontaires (volunteer drummers), eclaireur a cheval jeune garde (young mounted guard and scout -- the portrait doesn't show the guard on horseback though), musicien chapeau Chinois (musician with a Chinese hat), two panels, not identical, of musicien d'Etat-Major, Legion Italique 1800, Flanqueur chasseur and a voltigeur (a member of a skirmish unit created by Napoleon). Each of the paintings is framed by brown strips of thick card, about 1 cm in width. At the base of each picture, excepting one, is a thin label, attached with brad nails, identifying for us who is being portrayed. We can assume that Brisquet made many more of these, and it seems probable that Bernard-Franck himself had many more, based on the numbering on the backs of many of the paintings. Still, we would consider this grouping to be more than ample and not conspicuously lacking in anything. Bernard Franck (1848-1924) was recognized as a leading collector of both militariana and Napoleonic era souvenirs. Born in Paris of a Jewish family, Franck ran a family business that manufactured military equipment. During the Franco-Prussian War he volunteered as a Zuoave. During his lifetime parts of his collection were loaned out for exhibition, starting with the Paris Exposition of 1900, and a part of his collection would be acquired by J.P. Morgan, who contributed it to the Metropolitan Museum. Many of the figurines in his collection are now owned by the Musée de l’Armée which is located in les Invalides. All the panels have rings on their back that can be used for hanging them. The majority of the paintings are darkened and could benefit from a cleaning. This we can discern based on a few that are considerably brighter and thus are obviously closer to their original, intended state of color. Never, though, are featured blurred beyond recognition. A few chips to the applique pieces -- a missing hand, a missing piece to a wood stump, etc. Some of what were meant to be movable pieces no longer function as such. None of these losses materially affect the imagery. Rubbing of the frame pieces here and there. A few cracks to the card material or across the painting. In general, the condition flaws are acceptable and within expectation for decorative antiques -- one could say they add to the character, even. 
Price: 6000.00 USD
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77 Bööcke, R[obert] L., artist Sixty Watercolor and Gouache Paintings Paintings of the Characters in William Shakespeare's "Richard III"
1889-1890 NA Very Good Signed
A brilliant collection of original artwork covering the huge cast of the great Shakespearian tragedy and history play. Bööck's conception is full of color, and clearly aspired to historical fidelity, while also embodying late Victorian notions about historic dress, stagecraft and beauty -- one would not mistake these costumes for something that might be concocted today. His work bears some kinship to the sweet sentimentality of Kyd's illustrations of Dickensian characters, despite the very different nature of the material. Bööcke was a well-known book illustrator who had something of a specialty in Shakespearian costume. Samuel Miller published eight volumes of Shakespeare's plays with Bööcke's costume illustrations, including one volume on Richard III, for which these drawings were the original source. Each of the sixth illustrations is mounted on heavy card, signed by Bööcke, and usually dated, with the name of the character written in the upper corner. All the major and secondary, and even tertiary characters are here represented, excepting the ghosts, as are the bit walk-on generic characters, such as a soldier, a noble, etc. Richard himself is shown in four costumes, which of course marks his progression in the play from the Duke of Gloucester to monarch. The typical plate is about 24 by 18 cm, with some slightly larger, and the smaller plates being two or three cm narrower. At sometime in the past the plates were mounted into an album, as evident from roundish abrasions by the corners on the backs, with no impact on the illustrations. There is an occasional fox mark or the like, but other than edge age toning, the plates read as generally clean' 
Price: 3400.00 USD
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78 Clara Sproul Gay Fashion Drawings, Sketches and Watercolors
N.A. Very Good 
Circa 1930s. 15 mostly loose leaves with content. 12 by 9 inches. These are all a fashion design student effort, with an instructor's neat brief comments on a few of the pages. While the artistic competence of Ms. Gay was surely not outstanding as reflected on these leaves, there are two leaves of watercolors, one of a woman, the other, of three heads, that have a period charm. Of greater interest would be the documentary value of such exercises as done at the time, including one leaf with Ms. Gay's attempt at a color chart of sorts, and her efforts to work out design variations based on different body types. 
Price: 60.00 USD
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Spanien und die Spanier, ihre Sitten, Trachten, Volkssagen und Legenden, Bau- und Kunstdenkmaeler Mit vielen holzschnitten und Aquarellen, Cuendias, Emanuel von
79 Cuendias, Emanuel von Spanien und die Spanier, ihre Sitten, Trachten, Volkssagen und Legenden, Bau- und Kunstdenkmaeler Mit vielen holzschnitten und Aquarellen
Brussels and Leipzig Carl Muquardt 1849 Decorative clothg. Blindstamped, gilt stamped. Good 
4to. 27 by 18.5 cm. 25 hand-colored engravings, 25 tinted engravings, and many woodcuts interspersed in the text. Colas 770, Lipperheide Jc 29. Condition: joints repaired, somewhat crudely. Somewhat soiled cloth on boards. Edgewear. Scattered foxing and other soiling. A few torn and repaired tissue guards. Previous owner's name stamped disconcertingly on half title and title pages. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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Four Adorned Engraved Prints, de Vos, Maerten (1532-1603)
80 de Vos, Maerten (1532-1603) Four Adorned Engraved Prints
NA Very Good 
Scarce "adorned" prints, by which we mean the art form of adding or weaving fabric into the paper, and not merely mounting fabric onto the paper, is one in which there are few surviving samples. In other words, most of the "decoration" is actually below the surface of the print. The prints themselves are 17th century. They were adorned in the eighteenth century, when this intricate, and esoteric, art form came into fruition. The fabrics here used are silks of blue, white, silver yellow, black and green. The prints are all of religious subjects, such as Christ Nailed to the Cross. Especially striking in this print is the fabric used to embellish a horse. The source of these particular prints, which feature captions in German, we have as yet not determined. Condition: moderate wear. With tiny pin holes in narrow margins created when the prints were at one point hung up. 
Price: 4500.00 USD
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