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Costume and Fashion

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Costume and Fashion

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Spanien und die Spanier, ihre Sitten, Trachten, Volkssagen und Legenden, Bau- und Kunstdenkmaeler Mit vielen holzschnitten und Aquarellen, Cuendias, Emanuel von
81 Cuendias, Emanuel von Spanien und die Spanier, ihre Sitten, Trachten, Volkssagen und Legenden, Bau- und Kunstdenkmaeler Mit vielen holzschnitten und Aquarellen
Brussels and Leipzig Carl Muquardt 1849 Decorative clothg. Blindstamped, gilt stamped. Good 
4to. 27 by 18.5 cm. 25 hand-colored engravings, 25 tinted engravings, and many woodcuts interspersed in the text. Colas 770, Lipperheide Jc 29. Condition: joints repaired, somewhat crudely. Somewhat soiled cloth on boards. Edgewear. Scattered foxing and other soiling. A few torn and repaired tissue guards. Previous owner's name stamped disconcertingly on half title and title pages. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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Four Adorned Engraved Prints, de Vos, Maerten (1532-1603)
82 de Vos, Maerten (1532-1603) Four Adorned Engraved Prints
NA Very Good 
Scarce "adorned" prints, by which we mean the art form of adding or weaving fabric into the paper, and not merely mounting fabric onto the paper, is one in which there are few surviving samples. In other words, most of the "decoration" is actually below the surface of the print. The prints themselves are 17th century. They were adorned in the eighteenth century, when this intricate, and esoteric, art form came into fruition. The fabrics here used are silks of blue, white, silver yellow, black and green. The prints are all of religious subjects, such as Christ Nailed to the Cross. Especially striking in this print is the fabric used to embellish a horse. The source of these particular prints, which feature captions in German, we have as yet not determined. Condition: moderate wear. With tiny pin holes in narrow margins created when the prints were at one point hung up. 
Price: 4500.00 USD
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L'Armee Francaise.  Types et Uniformes, Detaille, Eduoard, illustrator;  Jules Richard, author of text
83 Detaille, Eduoard, illustrator; Jules Richard, author of text L'Armee Francaise. Types et Uniformes
Paris Boussard, Valadon & Cie. 1887 First edition Portfolios Very Good 
Three portfolios, each elephantine folios measuring 19 by 14 inches, 50 by 37 cm. With 60 colored plates in third volume. Vol. I: three title page with color illustration (all three) and 128 pp. Vol. II: same title and 116 pp. Many text illustrations as well. The aquarelles and drawings used for the work were four years in the making. The publication was meant to glorify the French military, from the Royal Army through the Revolutionary and First Empire armies, to the Restoration, the African corps, the Crimean War era, the Franco-Prussian War and the present at the time of publication. Portfolios are modern green cloth with silk ties. Contents are loose as issued. Some scattered minor wear. Some soiling here and there, a few minor chips as well. 
Price: 1200.00 USD
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Charles & Cie. Fourrures Pelleteries.  6, Avenue de la Toison-D'Or Bruxelles, Droit, Jean, artist (1884-1961)
84 Droit, Jean, artist (1884-1961) Charles & Cie. Fourrures Pelleteries. 6, Avenue de la Toison-D'Or Bruxelles
Brussels Paper folder Very Good Plus 
N.d., circa 1910. 36 by 22 cm. Folio of eight pochoir illustrations, all depicting elegantly appointed women decked in furs. The women are all on the move or active in some way -- these are illustrations meant to show how the garments work in their lifestyle. There is nothing static about the pictures. They bring to mind the breezy boulevard depictions of artists such as Sem, with the difference that these portraits aren't caricatures. The fashions hark from a period in which beauty and elegance was the hallmark of high fashion while some of the shackles imposed by fashion were being loosened -- women could go out in the world on their own to a degree seldom the case a generation earlier. Jean Droit was a French and Belgian artist and writer who excelled at book illustration. He is better known for his depictions of wartime and warfare, and he incidentally played an instrumental role in the scouting movement. This collection, produced early in his prolific career, is scarce -- we have been able to locate no other copies -- and each of the plates would be very appealing matted, framed and hung on a wall. 
Price: 500.00 USD
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Art Industriel:  L'Ornement Des Tissus:  Recueil Historique et Pratique, Avec Des Notes Explicatives et Une Introduction Generale, Dupont-Auberville, Auguste
85 Dupont-Auberville, Auguste Art Industriel: L'Ornement Des Tissus: Recueil Historique et Pratique, Avec Des Notes Explicatives et Une Introduction Generale
Paris Ducher & Cie. (Librairie Generale De L'Architecture et Des Travaux Publics) 1877 First Edition Hardcover Near Fine 
Book. Elephant Folio - over 15. 38, [2] pp. + 100 chromolithographic plates, each with separate text explanation page. Plates are 16 by 12 inches approximately, or 40 by 30 cm. This is a grand production inspired by Racinet's "Ornement Polychrome". Dupont-Auberville was a storied collector of fabric, which served as the primary basis for the patterns presented in this work. His collection was exhibited at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in 1880, and part of the collection was subsequently offered for sale at the Hotel Drouot, The Parisian Saleroom, in a two day sale in February 1885. This copy of the work is bound in full morocco, with six raised bands on the spine and gilt lettering for the title there. The only significant condition issue to speak of for the copy is the outline of a dampstain on the front board and upper third of the spine. On spine the outline is thicker -- it looks as if a bushstroke were run up the center of the spine where affected. Some very minor scuffs along edges otherwise. Nonetheless the red morocco is very bright and healthy, and notwithstanding the dampstain, attractive. Intricate dentelles along edges of inner boards. Gilt ruling along leather edges. T.e.g. or bright gilt foreedges. Very tight binding. Plates are bright and clean. Text clean. Marbled flypapers. Small discreet bookplate of noted decorative arts bibliophiles Robert Hoe and Arthur Hoe. Overall a gorgeous copy. 
Price: 2950.00 USD
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Art Deco Fashion Sketchbooks, Four in All, with an additional canvas, Ernest
86 Ernest Art Deco Fashion Sketchbooks, Four in All, with an additional canvas
1915-1919 
Containing a total of 80 original watercolors, 43 of which are pure fashion plates straight out of the wardrobe for "Downton Abbey". The fashions and aesthetic are very much of the teens and World War One era when what is known as Art Nouveau was evolving into the more angular, more abstract, more brittle, more self-consciously "Modern", of Art Deco. We can still see and enjoy the lavish and extravagant rococo flourishes of Art Nouveau while also finding traces of the streamlined looks associated with the twenties. The style of illustrations resembles that we find in "Gazette du Bon Ton", the highly sought-after French fashion magazine of the day, and we can see the possible influence of Aubrey Beardsley in the lines as well. Among the best illustrations there is a celebration of the exotic, the Oriental (a particularly Viennese version of Orientalism), the theatrical, and these aspects of the illustrations are redolent of such great illustrators as Dulac, Neilsen and their ilk. In the illustrations with theatrical allusions, conjured up are the glamourous poses by the opera divas of the day, when the likes of Geraldine Farrar or Maria Jeritza could be depended on for the flamboyant gestures that fed the enthusiasm of their huge base of fans. And then there is a small selection of other images, of ships, of an Australian dough boy, of an English cottage, that underscore the versatility of this Ernest. While the full identity of "Ernest" has yet to be established, the fineness and panache of the illustrations far exceeds that of a typical amateur, and it would seem probable that the sketches might have been done for or on behalf of a fashion house or retailer, either as drafts of ideas to be executed, renderings of what designers had already done, possibly to be copied, drafts of illustrations intended for catalogues or other promotional vehicles, or some combination. It would seem unlikely, in other words, that the drawings were merely done for the amusement of the artist. The illustrations are dated, with the earliest album also bearing the title, "Modes of 1915". The existence of this title offers indirect evidence of the artist's non-avocational purpose, in our view. 
Price: 10000.00 USD
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87 Ferrari, Filippo Nuova Racolta di Costumi di Roma e Suoi Contorni Disegnati e Incisi all'Acqua Forte
Roma 1838 Quarter Calf Good 
N.p. 4to. 29.5 by 20.5 cm. Hand-colored illustration on title, followed by 40 hand-colored costume plates depicting people of various professions in and around Rome, mostly common folk and their picturesque and colorful attire. No institutions listed with this exact same publication, but the illustrations herein can be encountered in leporellos and other formats, and so we are disinclined to make a representation about the scarcity of the collection of plates. Condition: Ex-lib, with perforated library name on every page, library bookplate in FEP, stamped number on one plate. Rebacked. Pages age toned, but otherwise mostly clean other than the perforation in upper right of pages. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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American Beauties, Fisher, Harrison
88 Fisher, Harrison American Beauties
Indianapolis The Bobbs Merrill Company 1909 First Editiion Hardcover Very Good Fair Jacket Jacket Harrison Fisher, with Decoration By E. Stetson Crawford 
Book. 4to - over 9¾. Unpaginated, 92 pp with 21 full page (11 by 9 inch) plates of feminine goddesses of the early twentieth century (the kind of women one might imagine in a Ziegfeld Follies of the day). Other pages, with light verse paeans to these women, also the kind of lines that might have been recited in a Ziegfeld cheesecake production number, surrounded by lovely borders of roses, vines, etc. Front board with some soilage. A small close tear on one leaf and a tiniest of pinprick holes near edge of a leaf near the end. Generally clean and tight. DJ, now protected with mylar, has considerable soilage and a few chips, one being rather larger (2 inches at widest). On the other hand, DJ comes with ribbon "To My Valentine" which is extremely rare. A very good copy overall. 
Price: 220.00 USD
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L'Algeria Antica e Moderna Dai Primi Ordini de Cartaginesi Insino alla Presa Della Smala D'Abd-El-Kader, Galibert, Leone;  translated into Italian by Mariano D'Ayala
89 Galibert, Leone; translated into Italian by Mariano D'Ayala L'Algeria Antica e Moderna Dai Primi Ordini de Cartaginesi Insino alla Presa Della Smala D'Abd-El-Kader
Napoli (Naples) Tipografia Floriana 1846 1st Edition thus Hardcover Good Plus 
Book. 8vo - over 7¾ - 9¾" tall. 787 pp. + 11 color plates of soldiers and fighters and 4 steel engravings of panoramas or views. Comprehensive history of Algeria, from Ancient Carthage to the then present of French control. Binding and text blocks are tight. Some occasional foxing, and on some pages it is considerable, as inevitable given the paper stock used. The costume color plates, though, are attractive and mostly clean, albeit their paper is toned a bit. Red calf spine and boards have a fair amount of rubbing, scuffing and wear, with some rawness on spine extremities. Overall better than a good copy. 
Price: 175.00 USD
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Collection des Nouveaux Costumes des Autorités Constituées, Civils et Militaires.  Dostumes des Législateurs et des Autres Fonctionaires Publics., Garnerey, Jean François, author of text and illustrator.  Engraved by Pierre-Michel Alix.
90 Garnerey, Jean François, author of text and illustrator. Engraved by Pierre-Michel Alix. Collection des Nouveaux Costumes des Autorités Constituées, Civils et Militaires. Dostumes des Législateurs et des Autres Fonctionaires Publics.
Paris 1796 Full Morocco Near Fine 
8vo. 19 by 12.5 cm. 8 pp, followed by 26 hand-colored aquatint plates depicting the dress of legislators, military officers, bureaucrats and other public officials during the French Revolution and Directoire period. Later full red morocco binding, with ornate gilt turn-ins, by Riviere. Light foxing, never disconcerting. 
Price: 1350.00 USD
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91 Giafferri, Paul Louis L'Histoire du Costume Feminin Francais de l'an 1037 a l'an 1870
Paris Editions Nilsson 1922 First Edition Wraps housed in a portfolio Very Good 
10 Fascicules housed in a portfolio folder. With 120 color pochoir plates, each measuring 39 by 28 cm, or 14.4 by 11 inches. The fascicules are devoted to different historic eras, and within, the plates are devoted to different aspects of clothing. All the fascicules have bright, lively illustrations on their covers which are among the most appealing illustrations in the series, followed by eight pages of text and then 12 plates, and the plates themselves have somewhat detailed captions describing the items depicted, thus making this an excellent visual reference as well as a hedonistic feast for the eyes for those enraptured by costume. Some fraying of the blue cloth of the outer portfolio. The leaves within are toned more heavily around the edges. A few chips. One fascicule has wraps torn at the spine line. Still, complete and mostly clean and fresh. 
Price: 600.00 USD
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Das Romische Carneval, Goethe, Johann Wolfgang Von
92 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang Von Das Romische Carneval
Munchen (Munich) F. Bruckmann 1922 First Edition Thus Cloth Near Fine 
4to - over 9¾. Book. Limited edition #244 of 1,000. 20 handcolored plates. Reprint with virtually complete fidelity to 1789 edition. 65 pp. Near fine. Boards have some soilwage and wear. Pages clean. Binding tight. 20 Handkolorierte Tafeln. 65 s. Sehr schones Exemplar, ungefahre Fein. Die Deckeln haben ein Bischen Schmutz. Die Seiten sind sauber. Limiterte Auflage, 244/1,000. 
Price: 325.00 USD
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93 Heath, Charles The Waverley Gallery of the Principal Female Characters in Sir Walter Scott's Romances. From Original Paintings by Eminent Artists. Engraved Under the Superintendence of Charles Heath
London Tilt and Bogue 1841 First Edition Full Morocco Very Good 
Unpaginated, with 36 hand-colored engravings of the heroines in Scott's novels, each plate accompanied by a text leaf with and telling passage that is telling of the heroines character, mettle, charm. Typically this work is encountered in black and white. The portraits epitomize ideals of beauty from the 1840s, and thus there are cosmetic similarities shared by all the ladies depicted, but through dress, expression, stance, a rich and variegated gallery emerges, and one can not gaze at these portraits without appreciating the rapture and awe Scott himself felt for his creations. The book is bound in a lushly decorated morocco. Both boards have an intricate band of swirling S motives and flowers constituting its dominant elements, and in the center is an armorial lion surrounded by an elaborate lozenge of floral vines with a calligraphic flow to them. The spine is divided into six compartments, five of which have an elaborate tracery. This still comes through, although the spine and the joints are rubbed rendering the spine a little "tired" in its appearance. The interior is tight. Some light and occasional foxing, but mostly clean. One plate with heavier marginal foxing, and tissue guards can be foxed. 
Price: 475.00 USD
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94 Heierli, Julie; Vorwort von Dr. H. Lehmann, Direktor des Schweizerischen Landesmuseums in Zurich Costumes Suisses [Schweizer-Trachten-Bilder von Wehrli A.-G., Kilchberg-Zurich]
Zurich Th. O. Studer-Schlapfer Wraps and Box Near Fine 
N.d., circa 1900 to 1920. 49 postcards of Swiss folk dress costume using colored photographs of local people. Captions on back or occasionally in corner of photo indicated the canton of origin. Regarding the pamphlet: 36 pp. Oblong, same dimensions as the cards, which are standard postcard-sized, or 14 by 9 cm, 5.5 by 3.5 inches. The box of cards was surely a souvenir item sold at the Schweizerisches Landesmuseum in Zurich which is a preeminent art and cultural institution in the country to this day, with particular strength in the decorative arts and ethnological matters relating to Switzerland and it was issued at a time that there was an awareness that the traditional modes of dress and agrarian living were quickly disappearing other than in the most limited of festival celebrations, and thus there was a surging of scholarly attention to these ways and a rush to preserve the record. Perhaps as interesting as the costume are the models who are ordinary folks. In their figures we encounter typically a compact efficiency. Seldom are they svelte by modern standards, but we can see an active purposefulness all the same. And then their facial expressions speak of humility, pride, perhaps resignation, perhaps something spiritual. A few of the cards are particularly beautiful and are hard to distinguish from painting. The box has some minor dampstaining in one corner and some small rubbed areas. Its outer shell has had some discreet repairs, as a result of which the box has structural integrity. The cards are clean, with some light toning, and uncreased. The pamphlet has some tiny fox marks which are barely noticeable. 
Price: 200.00 USD
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Confection Pour Enfants Album d'enfants, Henriette Brouwers
95 Henriette Brouwers Confection Pour Enfants Album d'enfants
Cloth Very Good Plus 
An extraordinary notebook on children's clothing designs, replete with colorful cut-outs and Art Nouveau border decorations done entirely by hand. N.d., circa 1930. Unpaginated, with about 60 pages of text and illustrations, with a few blank sheets in the rear. The term, "notebook", reallly doesn't do this album justice, as it was clearly intended to be an object of beauty and pride, and it is plausible that the student even had vague notions of having this published. While it runs through the technical steps in the fabrication of all kinds of garments to be worn by children, the notebook or album can be fully appreciated just for its aesthetic unity and other virtues. The designs of the cut-outs mostly hark to the kind of children's wear of the twenties to even the forties, while the ornamentation is typical of earlier decades. The cursive handwriting is uniform and handsome without being a showy calligraphy, other than the headings, which are somewhat fancier. Generally the structural aspects of the designs are rendered by hand directly into the book while examples are represented by paper cutouts, with the cuts done with great care and precision. There are tissue guards between all the paper leaves. Minor wear to the pages and tissue guards. Slight bowing to the boards. 
Price: 450.00 USD
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96 Hunt, Mrs. Alfred W. Drawn by George R. Halkett Our Grandmothers' Gowns With Twenty-Four Hand-Colooured Illustrations
London Field & Tuer. Simpkin, Marchall & Co. Hamilton, Adams & Co. First Edition Folio Very Good 
Unbound leaves housed in dedicated small portfolio (7.5 by 5 inches) with ties and floral fabric pasted onto boards. 54 pp. plus 24 color plates. Leaves are heavily age toned, clean otherwise. Soiling and/or darkening of fabric on cover, heavier in one corner. 
Price: 65.00 USD
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Album of Twenty-Nine Folding Color Fashion Plates from Les Modes Parisiennes Peterson's Magazine, Illman Brothers, engravers
97 Illman Brothers, engravers Album of Twenty-Nine Folding Color Fashion Plates from Les Modes Parisiennes Peterson's Magazine
1880-1882 Half Cloth. Marbled Boards. Very Good 
Oblong, 24 by 29.5 cm. The album was assembled from the hand-colored folding plates that appeared in each issue. Each shows five attractive young women decked in the latest fashion, usually engaged in an activity that the actual counterpart might have done, with occasionally men and/or children worked into the background or the activity. We see the women in an opera box, skating, making morning calls, promenading, at a garden party, playing croquet, at a wedding, at the seashore, gazing at engravings, etc. The compilation of these fashion plates makes for a very different experience from simply viewing them singly in the original magazine. The leaves are slightly browned but overall clean. Light to moderate wear to the binding. 
Price: 300.00 USD
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[Trade Catalogue] La Mode chez Delion.  Printemps et Eté 1903 Chapellerie Delion., Illustrations by Noël Dorville
98 Illustrations by Noël Dorville [Trade Catalogue] La Mode chez Delion. Printemps et Eté 1903 Chapellerie Delion.
Paris Devambez 1903 First Wraps Very Good 
8vo. 20 by 11.5 cm. 28 pp. Notable aspect of this thin catalogue is the eight pages devoted to caricature portraits of celebrities of the day -- Waldeck-Rousseau, Boni de Castellane, General Andre, etc. These drawings were done by Noël Dorville, a famous newspaper caricaturist of the day and a frequent contributor to the humor magazine, "L'Assiette au Beurre". The hats on offer range from top hats to bowlers, panamas, boaters, safari -- the full panoply of men's hats popular back when. While men's headgear is the primary thrust of the catalogue, there are two pages of hats for women, two pages of men's outerwear coats, and a page of canes and umbrellas. Overall, this is a handsome catalogue that sought to spare itself from being discarded upon receipt with its touch of levity. Condition: light soiling on the wraps. Clean within. 
Price: 150.00 USD
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L'Éventail et la Fourrure chez Paquin, Iribe, Paul, George Barbier and Georges Lepape, illustrators
99 Iribe, Paul, George Barbier and Georges Lepape, illustrators L'Éventail et la Fourrure chez Paquin
Paris Maquet 1911 First Hardcover folio. Paper pastedown on boards. Very Good 
Magnificent pochoir illustrations in a most extraordinary trade catalogue and promotion. 300 copies in limitation and on papiers de luxe, this copy being unnumbered and thus possibly out of series. Folio, 49.5 by 35 cm. Seven pochoir plates, four of hand fans, and three, fashion plates featuring furs. Jeanne Paquin was one of the leading couturiers at the turn of the century, and arguably the most esteemed and dominant between the times of Charles Frederick Worth and Coco Chanel. Scarce, with only one copy located on OCLC First Search, at the Kunstbibliothek, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Condition: soiling on the folio cover, including some inked arithmetic written on rear cover. Lacking one blank tissue guard. Other guards with crinkling, one tear. Light foxing of endpapers. Pochoirs are vivid, bright and fresh. 
Price: 4500.00 USD
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Beauty in clothes must be backed up by skilful, expert tailoring., J. L. Taylor & Co.
100 J. L. Taylor & Co. Beauty in clothes must be backed up by skilful, expert tailoring.
New York and Chicago J. L. Taylor Leporello Near Fine 
N.d., circa early 1920s. 18 by 10 cm. Four panel leporello promotional circular for men's suits. Illustrations are rendered with color printing. The men are all wearing boaters, suggesting spring and summer weight suits. They are tall and very slender, with the chiseled looks that were the ideal -- not so different from a lot of male fashion models of today, really. The front of the fold-out features a cut-out or shaped young women of the era, and from her dress we can surmise that the circular was issued in the very early twenties. J. L. Taylor had a large tailoring operation in both Chicago and New York until the Second World War. Specializing in pure wool fabrics for men's clothing, it employed hundreds of tailors and seamstresses. Scarce, with no copies found on OCLC. An inked name of the recipient in space intended for such on front. Otherwise, minimal wear, especially considering this was mailed. 
Price: 200.00 USD
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